Hundreds of crimson heirloom chiles dangle from the eaves of Rancho de Chimayó restaurant, north of Santa Fe. But they're not just for decoration. Janet Malcolm, the kitchen manager (below), plucks them for carne ado-vada, pork in velvety red-chile sauce. "Our guests can't get enough of it," she says. "They eat 300 pounds a week." Since colonial times, this dish has helped define New Mexico cooking. "The sauce is made almost entirely from native chiles," says Malcolm. Those from Chimayó have developed—over centuries of struggling to grow in the lean soil and high, dry climate—a robust, mellow sweetness that makes them prized throughout the state.
For home cooks, carne adovada is a savior: easy (you can do it in a slow-cooker), excellent made ahead, and freezable. It's great in tacos,…
