Sommaire pour June 2018 de Surfer

“She’s got balls!” exclaimed the guy on a shortboard paddling next to me at a Dominican Republic reef pass, as Anna Santoro started scratching into an oversized set wave. It was one of the biggest swells of the season, and chunky overhead walls were hitting a shallow section and morphing into thick-lipped tubes that required ninja-like skills to knife into. Santoro lived on the North Shore of Oahu for many years, honing her skills at Sunset, Rocky Point and the outer reefs, so her wave choice wasn’t all-too surprising. But it did, apparently, surprise the guy next to me. Clearly, his anatomically-incorrect comment was meant to be a compliment of Santoro’s ability in consequential surf, but it did get me thinking. In surfing, we’ve historically judged the aquatic talents of…

IF you were to pick some kind of sign prophesying that a young athlete is destined for greatness, success at an eyebrow-raising early age is a pretty solid indication you’ve got a budding star on your hands. Future sports heroes are typically advanced well beyond their years, not only dominating their peer group, but also stepping up to challenge seasoned competitors who are much older and far more experienced. Think about LeBron James, Tiger Woods, Wayne Gretzky, the Williams sisters, Kelly Slater, Carissa Moore—all enjoyed success, often against adults, while they were still freckly-faced teenagers. Greatness was obviously waiting just down the road. We should probably think about adding 16-year-old Caroline Marks to that list. At the end of the 2017 World Surf League season, Marks, then only 15, about…

THE chances are pretty good that if you competed in a kind of board sport triathlon against 11-year-old Sierra Kerr you’d lose—badly. Don’t believe it? Take a few minutes to watch her highlight reels on YouTube. Surfing? Kerr will take you to the cleaners in a wave pool. She’s threaded technical tubes at the Surf Ranch, something many competent adult surfers have managed to flub. In the ocean she boasts a mean, ankle-busting layback, complimented with sprightly straight airs. Skating? Ha. She flies down vert ramps that would make most grown men grow pale. In a skate park with transitions, frontside 360s and alley-oops are no trouble at all for the pint-sized wonder. Ever gone wake surfing? Can you pop endless airs behind the boat? Kerr can. Oh, and she’s…

For decades, professional surf photography has typically been seen as a man’s game. Why? There’s no reason at all that men should dominate the surf-shooting business. But like any other field, once it’s been established as a boy’s club, breaking through the testosterone-saturated walls isn’t easy. Thankfully, those walls are steadily eroding. Today, more women photographers than ever before find artistic angles on idyllic point surf, or swim out to sketchy heavy-water breaks, hulking waterhousing in hand while they dodge mutant sets. And when it comes to female surfing specifically, who better to document the evolution of women in the lineup than their fellow women? The following pages celebrate the best work from these photographers, with their lenses keenly trained on the bold present era of female surfing.…

DRAGONALLIANCE.COM Baile From the Gaelic word for “home,” the Baile is the conceptual brainchild of 3-time World Champion surfer Mick Fanning. This signature sunglass marks the latest in the longtime partnership between Dragon and the legendary surfer. Made in Italy from lightweight injection molded plastic, the 4-base lens curvature is stylishly flattering and sits comfortably on your face and in your pocket. The Baile offers 100-percent UV protection and is available in H2O Floatable styles. $190…

“This swell came a little early in the season,” says photographer Todd Glaser, who recently went on a strike mission to Fiji with Joel Tudor, Dane Gudauskas and Jojo Roper. “It was the last day of our trip and we got up really early in the morning to head out to Cloudbreak. As we turned around the corner of the island, still about 2 miles away from Cloudbreak, we could see waves like this breaking. Luckily we were the first ones out there. The crew couldn’t get out of the boat fast enough.”…

“PEOPLE ask if it’s a gimmick,” says San Diego-based shaper Christine Brailsford Caro, describing one of her more unconventional designs as we sit in the shade behind Moonlight Glassing, where she shapes under her Furrow label. “But I don’t like gimmicks, and I wouldn’t make these boards if they didn’t work.” The design in question, called the “Labyrinth,” has an egg-like outline with the wide point moved way back, and it features the edge-bottom concept pioneered by the iconic shortboard revolutionary, George Greenough. Greenough had told his close friend and fellow board builder Marc Andrieni to share the design with a few promising shapers to see what they could do with it, which is how Brailsford Caro found herself carving the odd-looking hard edge through the bellies of her boards.…

WHITE sand beaches, crystal clear water and a dense jungle halting just before the tideline—at a glance, Indonesia’s Morotai Island is about as pristine and inviting as anything you’ve ever seen on a postcard. But as beautiful and isolated as it may seem, the community that calls the island home doesn’t exist in a vacuum, and they face many of the same problems plaguing coastal communities in developing countries around the world. “Some of the most pressing issues the local people face include overfishing, waste mismanagement, plastic pollution, sea-level-rise and unrestricted development,” said Emi Koch, founder of Beyond the Surface International, over email during a layover in Singapore. “These issues become much harder to address when isolated or marginalized communities lack access to needed information. That’s especially true with climate…

CISURFBOARDS.COM Conner Coffin, Bobby Martinez & Parker Coffin Signature Hex Cords Precision swivel, quick-dry neoprene, updated long hosel for added strength, textured/no slip cuff. Competition: 6' length; 3/16" diameter Feather Lite Shortboard and Specialty Day Bags Light as a feather, the Feather Light bag offers an economical solution to sun damage and dings. Features include: waterproof shell, reinforced nose protection, CI leash string pull tabs, 3mm padding, grey 420 D Cordura top, and a white tarpaulin bottom. Bobby Martinez Signature Traction Pad Three-piece flat pad, medium kick 28mm, mixed groove technology. Available in black, grey camo/white, and red/white/green Dane Reynolds PPR Traction Pad The same vertical-split flat pad from Dane Reynolds that we have all grown to love, now in a post-production recycled option. Now you can get real grippy…

MERGE4.COM Beyond magnificent in appearance, style and comfort, the MERGE4 socks are constructed like no other. Your soles are GRIPPED by our deviously interesting “CULT-WEAVE,” which cushions what is sometimes called the “arch” area. YES, you heard correctly; MERGE4 “GRIPS YOUR SOLE”. Our newest collaboration with Sublime brings their distinct style to your feet with Sun and Lou Dog socks, as well as the always amazing shots of legendary surf photographer Dave Nelson with Blur.…

Kelly Slater stands in the backyard of his home on the North Shore of Oahu, holding perfectly still for the camera. He’s barefoot, wearing a pair of boardshorts and is holding a big-wave gun upright behind him. At first glance, it seems like just another photo shoot for the most popular surfer in the world, but the photographic equipment situated in front of him isn’t exactly the high-tech digital gear you normally see surf photographers carting around. Getting settled behind a tripod with a large, wooden field camera affixed to the top of it is Brooklyn-based photographer Joni Sternbach, who’s spent the past decade creating antique-looking, large-format portraits of contemporary surfers. Sternbach is one-part chemist, one-part photographer, using a process called wet-plate collodion—an early photographic technique from the 1850s—that makes…

IN lineups from San Onofre to Noosa Heads, Malibu to Waikiki, traditional longboarding is enjoying a renaissance colored by single fins, traditional outlines and an electric cast of radical stylists redefining fun in surf under head-high. And if you’re having trouble wrapping your mind around the appeal of the logging revival, you probably haven’t seen the magnetic approach of Karina Rozunko. Karina Rozunko’s dad put her on a surfboard before she could walk, and she grew up idolizing her older brother, pro shortboarder and aerial maestro Tanner Rozunko. So it was probably inevitable that she’d become a talented surfer herself, but few would have predicted she’d eventually find herself at the forefront of the traditional longboarding revival. “I used to ride shortboards and do contests growing up, but I feel…

“I think she may be nuts,” said Marti Paradisis, a man who is most definitely nuts, best known for careening through some of the world’s most frightening tubes. Paradisis was talking about Narabeen’s Laura Enever after spending a day towing her into beastly waves at Tasmania’s snarling monster, Shipstern Bluff, this past March. While calling somebody’s sanity into question might sound like a note of disparagement, or possibly even genuine concern, it’s actually the highest form of praise coming from a person who calls surfing triple-lipped slabs breaking over barely-wet reefs a good time. Paradisis wasn’t the only person Enever impressed when the surf world was blindsided earlier this spring by footage of Enever at Shiperstern, powering through one of the heaviest barrels ever ridden by a woman. Even though…

OAKLEY.COM Frogskins Lite Influenced by sport and pop-culture, the Frogskins Lite Collection is an evolution of the brand’s most iconic lifestyle sunglass, the Frogskins. This collection sports a lightweight, classic, semi-rimless frame design and is available with Prizm lenses that fine-tune and enhance color where the eye is most sensitive to detail. $143 Racetracks 20 Four-way stretch fabrication frees movement, minimizes water absorption and ensures quick drying. The regular-fit design has a 20-inch outseam and includes a Velcro® pocket on back, complete with a key loop. $60 Latch Key M Oakley has expanded the Latch eyewear collection with Latch Key, featuring a stainless steel underwire for a semi-rimless look. Available in two sizes, Latch Key M and L come equipped with a hidden latch on the hinge that allows you…

PATAGONIA.COM Patagonia Men’s Boardshorts Fine-tuned for comfort and freedom of movement, our stretch trunks are built with durable, lightweight fabrics that thrive in the water and dry fast between surfs. The pared-down back pocket doubles as a compact stuff pouch. Fast-drying with a DWR (durable water repellent) finish and 50+ UPF sun protection. Made of recycled fabrics and Fair Trade Certified™ sewn. Pataloha Collection Our new limited edition Pataloha® print began with Rell Sunn’s nickname for Yvon Chouinard–Opihi Man. Featuring images of intertidal life framed by fishing and climbing rope, it celebrates our origins as surfers, climbers and nomadic travelers who drew their sustenance from both land and sea. Responsibili-Tee® Shirts Our new Responsibili-Tee® shirts are Fair Trade Certified™ sewn and made from 100-percent recycled fibers. Each Responsibili-Tee is made…