OVER 20 YEARS IN THE FOOD WORLD, I HAVE WATCHED talented chefs and leading restaurants across the U.S. build a New American cuisine. These chefs, typically white and U.S.-born, often treated ingredients like yuzu, turmeric, berbere, poblanos and za’atar as experimental inputs, not parts of other people’s history. As an Indian immigrant, I realized there was more to the stories of these foods. To hear these stories, I spent the past year traveling across the U.S. talking with immigrant, Black and Native American home cooks, chefs, food historians and restaurateurs.
In El Paso, Texas, I met Kristal and Emiliano Marentes, a couple from Mexican immigrant families who had recently opened their own restaurant, Elemi. Recalling the tortillas that their mothers used to cross the border to buy in Juárez,…