Vamos a escandallar ,” is a phrase you will hear non-stop in Spanish kitchens. Not to be confused with a curse word, the term escandallo (meaning price breakdown) is an integral part of the gastromarket, just like ‘hot behind’. Peering over open Word documents and Excel spreadsheets, the kitchen staff huddles around a tablet or PC, marking check-boxes and tallying the cost of every single ingredient of the new dish they’re adding to the menu: onions, sea bass, suckling pig, eggs, salt, extra virgin olive oil and basil leaves are weighed and measured to the last milligram, as are several other expenses monitored by the restaurant’s finance department: water, electricity, gas, dishware and glassware, staff wages and Social Security withholdings; bank interest, rent or mortgage, and so on. According to…
