Legends, Heroes, Gods or Monsters?
The Bad-Boys of Australian Surfing and Why They Self-Destruct.
This issue: Michael Peterson & Joe Engel
Australian surfers love an out-of-control rebel. Particularly if they surf exceedingly well. We admire their free spirited, devil-may-care approach to life; both in the water and on the land. They do things in their own way, on their own time, and by their own rules, and are often motivated by a raging fire that burns deep within their damaged psyche. Initially, they’re driven to prove themselves, but ultimately, they’re driven to destroy themselves. It’s not pretty, but we can’t look away.
It’s a rare and fascinating flame that draws them in. Predictably, there’s a never-ending supply of sycophantic acolytes who willingly keep that fire well stoked. I should know,…
