Tabla de contenidos para February 2025 en Wallpaper

Ardent fans of the dynamic duo behind Dimorestudio and Dimoremilano, our antennae were set to high alert in the run-up to Salone del Mobile by the news that Emiliano Salci and Britt Moran were due to unveil a new brand. To say we weren’t disappointed is an understatement: Interni Venosta is one of the most beautiful, accomplished, perfectly pitched and fully realised furniture brands we’ve seen enter the fray in three decades of design discovery. The 22-piece collection has been dispatched in three drops, and to stand among the furniture and lighting is to be transported to a different world, one with shaggy rugs and velvet slippers, silk kaftans and turbans, martinis and cigars. Salci is renowned for his encyclopaedic knowledge and references within design; the genius here is that…

The anniversary of a watch’s debut is often marked with an impressive new release, ably demonstrating the brand’s technical progression since the original’s launch. Lately though, a slew of brands have come full circle and returned to consider the founding watch itself. Casio commemorated its 50th anniversary with the re-release of a collection that has surely earned its status as a cult classic. Originally appearing in 1974, the ongoing re-release of digital watches brings back models from the 1970s, 1980s and 1990s. G-Shock, too, is making the classic contemporary again, marking its 40th anniversary with the Remaster series, featuring sharp new design details including transparent cases and useful tech. Elsewhere, Audemars Piguet translated an original 1960s design into a brutalist-inspired asymmetrical creation, [Re]master02; Hermès has rethought the Arceau watch 50…

There was a feeling of circularity to Anthony Vaccarello’s S/S25 show for Saint Laurent, held at its Left Bank HQ for the first time since the Belgian designer staged his debut there eight years ago. Vaccarello has proved increasingly adept at translating the Yves Saint Laurent codes (powerful sensuality and gilded opulence, a clash of masculine and feminine, an unabashed use of colour) into a sharp, contemporary vision that often centres on the impact of a singular silhouette. For S/S25, he evoked the house’s founder more directly, sending out a cast of models wearing riffs on the couturier’s personal uniform: louche tailoring, wide on the shoulders and fluid in shape, worn with a tie. Among them was Bella Hadid, in a rare runway appearance, sporting a pair of Yves Saint Laurent’s…

‘I vividly remember that I was one of those kids who loved stationery and having a huge palette of colours in front of me,’ says Hermès Beauty’s creative director Gregoris Pyrpylis, talking about the inspiration behind Trait d’Hermès. His recent collection of eye and lip pencils, conceived in collaboration with the brand’s packaging creator Pierre Hardy, reflects on these childhood memories and is designed to resemble a kaleidoscopic set of new crayons. ‘Make-up has become even more joyful and more playful than ever,’ he says. ‘And Trait d’Hermès is an invitation to explore this to its fullest.’ A grown-up invitation to play with make-up application has felt like a running theme. Peter Philips, Dior’s creative and image director of make-up, channelled a similar line of thought into the reimagined Diorshow…

Iceland is entering a new eruptive era. Since 2021, heightened volcanic activity around the Reykjanes Peninsula has sent lava flows spilling across the landscape, creating fields of thick black crust as they cool. For most Icelanders, it’s a part of daily life, but for Reykjavik-based architect Arnhildur Pálmadóttir, it presented an opportunity to look at ways to transform a local threat into a resource. Volcanic basalt has long been used in construction, and there are instances where natural volcanic rock formations have been incorporated into buildings, but Pálmadóttir’s vision is more ambitious. Appearing in Iceland’s pavilion during the upcoming 19th Venice Architecture Biennale, her Lavaforming project envisions a future where entire cities could be built in weeks by channelling lava flows into trenches to form foundations, walls and other structural…

Founded in 2022 to champion new creative talent in the world of German design, the Rimowa Design Prize is an annual competition open to students who share the luggage brand’s values of innovation, inclusivity and change. This was amply demonstrated in the 2024 edition’s winning design, the ‘RO’ vest, by Anhalt University undergraduate Janne Kreimer. Addressing the theme of mobility, her digitally-sensitive garment is studded with ‘soft robots’ that gently inflate when sensing anxiety in the wearer, targeting acupressure points around the body to calm nerves and soothe tension. And its retro-futuristic styling means it looks pretty dandy, too. ‘The vest’s development was focused on functionality and scientific accuracy,’ says Kreimer. ‘But it was also important to translate that functionality into an appealing design that people enjoy wearing.’ Each shortlisted…

In the six weeks following the June launch of Charli XCX’s Brat, the campaign behind the album achieved cultural ubiquity. It became a hot topic among a public who, until that point, had likely barely heard of the singer. The pivot from fan bubble to part of the ether was Charli XCX’s reaction on X to Kamala Harris’ bid for the US presidency, posting ‘kamala IS brat’. The Harris team responded by revamping the backdrop of its X page in what has become known as ‘brat green’. From there, a mainstream phenomenon was born. Charli XCX realised the design for the brat concept with Brent David Freaney, the founder of Manhattan-based studio Special Offer Inc. On 29 July, The New York Times published an article titled, ‘You Can’t Escape This…

ES British artist and stage designer Es Devlin works across mediums, celebrating public participation in exhibitions, large-scale performances and immersive installations that frequently combine music, language and light. Interviewed by Hannah Silver I have spent the last few years thinking extensively about the word ‘home’. The forces that shaped my work in 2024 have been building for the last couple of years. I spent much of 2022 making closely observed drawings of 243 of the 15,000 wildlife species that call London home, learning as I progressed through close encounters with our city’s moths, birds, bats, insects, amphibians and fungi, the continuity or line and form between us and the biosphere. I began to understand, through a daily practice of observing and drawing, the urgency of Joanna Macy’s invitation to us…

Last June, British designer Craig Green opened up his London studio to show his latest collection after a two-year absence from the runway. He admitted that such an intimate show was scary – ‘it’s like someone painting a runway through your house,’ he said – but it also felt liberating. Here was the site of Green’s fashion experiments, a creative lab of endless enquiries into fabric and material; all that intricately moulded leather, the glimmering candy wrapper-like fabrics, or the various constructions designed to hang off the body like contemporary sculpture. In the past decade, these have evoked sails and lilos, medical equipment and horse-riding stirrups, even contorted dummies used for martial arts practice. For this show, his S/S25 offering, Green felt like a designer in full flight, riffing on…

Welcome to our annual Design Awards issue, a fixture of our editorial calendar (this is its 21st year), but also, increasingly, a hugely valuable, time-stamped appraisal of the very best the world has to offer in terms of fashion, technology, architecture, interiors, travel and art. As ever, the Wallpaper* team has been both avid in their appreciation and acute in their adjudication of each of our winners; mindful, too, that applying a ‘time stamp’ to achievement is necessarily limiting. After all, truly great design isn’t for a month or a year, but has the potential to permanently alter our direction of travel, affecting lives in ways that might take a little time to comprehend. It’s with this in mind that we decided to shake up the awards process itself (and…

This remarkable stove-top espresso maker takes its name from the ‘anticline’ geological formation, whereby molten rock rises and cools leaving undulating layers, and we love that it also mimics the rise and fall of water as it becomes coffee in the alchemical process that we habitually take for granted. ‘It’s inspired by the geological folds in the landscape near where my father lives,’ says its designer, Nathaniel Wojtalik, founder of Brooklyn-based Cultivation Objects. ‘We used to spend a lot of time drinking coffee and wandering in the mountains together.’ Cast in recycled aluminium with handles made from ebonised cherry wood collected from storm-fallen trees in upstate New York, The Anticline is a winner for its pleasing sculptural form and capacity to inject a little artistry into our morning ritual. A marvellous…

A master of raw forms, the late JB Blunk sculpted primarily in wood and ceramicfor works that took their cue from salvaged natural materials. It was an organic philosophy that extended to the jewellery Blunk enjoyed creating for his family and friends. Wearable sculptures in their own right, the miniature pieces were also a way for Blunk to work on a small scale, exploring keyhole silhouettes or uneven circles, which were then translated into his larger pieces. Now the JB Blunk Estate has paid tribute to this heritage, for the first time issuing reproductions of four special rings, in collaboration with LA-based jewellery designer J Hannah. Each ring is produced in a limited edition of 50 in silver and recycled 18k gold. Three are reinterpretations of gifts that Blunk created…

As reissue stories go, the ‘Spherical’ bed is an award-winning fairy tale of design, because it celebrates both the past and the future in one fell swoop. Originally designed by Kaare Klint, the single bed was presented in 1938 at the Danish Cabinetmakers’ Autumn Exhibition as part of Klint’s showcase, titled ‘A Lady’s Boudoir’. The show attracted criticism that making furniture for a woman living alone was profligate. Klint is said to have responded that the world could do with more elegance and love. With its curved ends, the bed has a cocooning cosiness to it. Such was the complexity of its construction that it proved near-impossible for the still-evolving, machine-led production. Fast forward to the introduction in 2019 of Carl Hansen & Søn’s apprentice programme The Lab, in which…

After the pink moondust has settled and the reactionary howls have tailed away, what to make of Jaguar’s Type 00 concept? Is it the most finely crafted piece of comment-bait ever created? That’s undeniable, given the scale of the pile-on from social media and traditional commentary when the car was unveiled at Miami Art Week last December. Its progenitor, JLR’s CCO Gerry McGovern, has been widely quoted as saying that ‘Jaguar has no desire to be loved by everybody’, to which some wags swapped ‘everybody’ for ‘anybody’. In fact, the backlash has helped cement our appreciation for this attempt to do things differently. Not intended for production – a point widely missed by those who misunderstand the entire raison d’être of a concept car – the Type 00 is a…

Alaïa maison-alaia.com Anna Karlin annakarlin.com Baxter baxter.it Bottega Veneta bottegaveneta.com Cassina cassina.com Celine celine.com Chanel celine.com Craig Green craig-green.com Devin Wilde devinwilde.com Dior dior.com Duran Lantink duranlantink.com Faber Futures faberfutures.com Falke falke.com Flos flos.com Giles Tettey Nartey gilestetteynartey.com Hermès hermes.com Hodakova hodakova.com Issey Miyake isseymiyake.com Jialun Xiong jialunxiong.com JW Anderson jwanderson.com Loewe loewe.com Louis Vuitton louisvuitton.com Marni marni.com Minotti minotti.com Molteni & C molteni.it Muuto muuto.com Paula Rowan paularowan.com Pitt & Giblin pittandgiblin.com.au Poliform poliform.it Poltrona Frau poltronafrau.com Prada prada.com Puiforcat puiforcat.com Raphael Kadid raphaelkadid.com Sheyang Li @_sheyang_ Soft-Geometry soft-geometry.com Victoria Beckham victoriabeckham.com…

From verdant lettuce leaves to radiant radishes, Loewe’s A/W24 womenswear collection featured a veritable cornucopia of produce, reimagined in cloth and intricately decorated with tiny, hand-stitched caviar beads. Designer Jonathan Anderson was in part inspired by the bucolic scenes and floral still-lifes of little-known American painter Albert York, whose work decorated the show space in Paris’ Château de Vincennes. It set the stage for a collection that Anderson said turned the ‘tropes of class and wealth on their head’, riffing on markers of affluence, from Eton morning suits to prints inspired by 18th-century ceramics. Caviar beading featured throughout, across biker boots, slouchy bags and harem pants, and these pieces spoke of the designer’s dedication to translating painstaking craft into distinctly contemporary garments – from hand-painted feathers to tiny shards of shells.…

Since we’re in Italy, let’s start in the kitchen. This particular kitchen has around 60,000 recipes, but rather than whipping up ragù, this is where Stone Island’s impressive range of fabric colours are cooked up. The brand might be best known for its badge, but its true essence lies in its material innovations, such as its dyeing processes. ‘The design team build a palette, then we give that to the colour team for them to start doing the recipe,’ says Sasha Kanevskyi, Stone Island’s design director, as we tour the brand’s HQ in Ravarino, Emilia-Romagna, first taking in the ‘tintoria’, an old warehouse full of dye drums, archaic-looking washing machines, Wonka-esque pipes and flasks of bright potions. The classic white lab coats come with the Stone Island signature: the brand’s…

The presence of Formafantasma within the design industry reached levels of near-ubiquity in 2024. Cynics might say the breadth of their involvement demonstrates a lack of courage and imagination on behalf of brands. We heartily object. The rigour and quality of Andrea Trimarchi and Simone Farresin’s work is consistently relevant, always fascinating, urgent, even. They stand apart and, excitingly, their mode of critical digging into the systemic forces of life is inspiring a new generation of design progeny to follow suit. For brands, working with Formafantasma is like therapy: the past is mined and overturned to pave the way for a leaner present and a cleaner future. So Formafantasma’s place on our podium this year was never in question. The project that we have chosen to award was a curiously…

A good armchair, we feel, is one that balances crisp elegance as a sculptural object with the feeling of a good hug when in use, and Japanese designer Fumie Shibata’s debut creation for Flexform is a standout example. Inspired by the uplifted lapels of a jacket (so demure), the leather-upholstered shell is cradled by a turned wooden base in either Canaletto walnut, ash or oak, with die-cast zama feet in satin, chrome, anthracite or titanium finishes. Soft goose-down-filled seat cushions and backrests complete the comfort factor. ‘Eri’ means both ‘blessing’ and ‘collar’ in Japanese, and we applaud the cosseting nature and careful detail of Shibata’s design, which will surely win hearts and behinds across residential and commercial domains. In a sea of more angular chairs that proliferated on the stands last…

Maison Margiela’s triumphant Artisanal 2024 show in Paris saw creative director John Galliano present fashion as an unadulterated spectacle, with a collection that moved some of the audience to tears. Every great designer needs a team of equally pioneering collaborators to help shape their vision, and Galliano has been turning to make-up artist Pat McGrath since the 1990s to add theatre to his runway. For the Artisanal show, she transformed models into living dolls, paint-daubing their faces, then sealing them with a lacquered finish to give a ‘glass skin’ appearance. After the look went viral, her beauty brand Pat McGrath Labs began developing a transparent, glycerine-rich mask designed to recreate the same hyper-shine effect seen on the runway, which will be launched this month to mark the anniversary of Maison…

Across great swathes of the creative industries, there’s a feeling that AI is to innovation as a simmering pan of water is to the future well-being of a frog. We’re being slow-boiled from the inside, all in the name of new tools, faster shortcuts and quicker, shinier visuals, with the source material becoming increasingly tainted as the feedback loop grows stronger. And yet AI continues to fascinate even as it hollows out all creative and intellectual pursuits. Along with the crowd of willingly deployed AI-powered personal assistants, help desks, romantic companions and therapists has come a fresh wave of catfish, scammers and malicious actors. It will only get worse. The incoming US administration promises a bonfire of bureaucracy and legislation. In October 2023, President Biden issued an executive order that…

‘The time has come to reimagine skeletal voids and envision new futures within them,’ says Dominique Petit-Frère, co-founder of Limbo Accra. Over the past six years, the spatial design studio has built a compelling portfolio centred on researching, archiving and transforming unfinished buildings, turning contemporary ruins into vibrant cultural venues. The studio’s output embodies the zeitgeist for rethinking the global built environment. ‘The concept of ruin is central to our work, as we see it as a way to explore impermanence and transformation,’ says Petit-Frère. Petit-Frère founded the studio in 2018 with Emil Grip, deriving the name in reference to the in-between state of construction in West Africa. According to Petit-Frère, these buildings have been left in a state of ‘limbo’, and much of the studio’s work touches on the…

Deliberating on how we might encapsulate the year in design for our cover, we quickly settled upon the joyfully imaginative work of Isabel + Helen. Isabel Gibson and Helen Chesner met while studying at Chelsea College of Arts and, since graduating in 2012, the pair have taken their kinetic performance sculptures to festivals and design fairs, photo shoots and runways. The easy appeal and readable artistry of their work is the very embodiment of light relief. This year has been a big one for the London-based duo, who took their Power Suits – ‘wearable energy generators’ – to Vienna for Cartier; collaborated with Chanel and Porsche; and conducted a ‘human firework’ workshop with students at ÉCAL in Switzerland. For our cover, they sought to capture a lightbulb moment, with a…