Table of contents for June 2018 in Sunset

THERE ARE FEW DYNAMICS as delightful as the camaraderie that comes about on a photo shoot. You’re working as a team behind the scenes, each person’s function specifically calibrated toward a common goal. Your attention is focused on creating an image that, weeks or months from now, will be in an issue of Sunset you hold in your hands. Maybe you’re hauling plant-filled containers out of a moving van, or pushing a prop-loaded wheelbarrow toward a houseboat crammed with a dozen of your colleagues; you’ll go to any lengths for the perfect shot. And when the last light is gone and the cameras are carefully packed away, the most rewarding part of the day begins—preparing a meal in massive quantities for a crew with an honest day’s hunger. Cooking for…

Environmentalists, rejoice—not all new hotels mean the destruction of what’s come before. Just ask Rob Wallace of Architectural Resources Group, whose latest project, Lodge at the Presidio, takes this design maxim to heart: “When a building is re-adapted for use, it’s much greener than building new.” Set in San Francisco’s famed Presidio—the former U.S. military fort turned 1,500-acre national park—the 42-room hotel is designed to meet LEED Gold standards with its historic rehabilitation of the Montgomery Street Barracks. The 1895 red-brick structure previously housed cavalry and artillery. While the decor of its sister property, the Inn at the Presidio, gives more of a nod to the park’s military background, the Lodge’s handsome, understated spaces allow its sustainability efforts to shine—from a green electricity program to smart key cards that turn…

Is it a laid-back college town? A surf-bum way station? A luxe paradise of villas and palm trees? All of those things, for sure, but also much more. Beyond its almost-too-perfect coastal beauty, Santa Barbara is also a city full of style and spirit. That spirit, you might recall, was tested six months ago, when California’s biggest wildfire on record charred the surrounding hills. The city itself was largely spared, so its residents immediately got to work hosting benefit concerts and selling “805 Strong” apparel to help their impacted neighbors rebuild. As the first post-fire summer begins, there’s a renewed sense of vigor and purpose. Innovators continue to make over the town’s warehouses and historic buildings into centers of cool, and the food scene just keeps getting edgier. But there’s…

PERFECT DAY It used to be that the best food in Petaluma was simply passing through, on its way from Wine Country farms to kitchens in San Francisco and beyond, as the town’s old grain elevators and railway tracks attest. Nearby organic growers and ranches continue to churn out the goods, but a new generation of locavore restaurants and darling shops have awakened the appetite of this once-sleepy thoroughfare and made it a food destination itself. Pull off the highway on your way to the tasting rooms the area is famous for, and a “quick” detour can easily eat up a whole day. 9 A.M. Start at Acre Coffee’s (acrecoffee.com) downtown Fourth Street location for a single-origin roast, or maybe the Acre Dream: cold brew finished with housemade chicory syrup…

Ask about any corner of Simone LeBlanc and Ross Jacobson’s house, and there’s bound to be a tale of discovery. There’s the Danish ottoman he scored after falling down a rabbit hole of online auctions; the coffee table she unearthed at an estate sale; and various objects by artists from California and beyond. “Ross and I are drawn to storied items,” says LeBlanc, who runs a namesake site specializing in curated gifts. “And we both love the hunt.” The couple has been filling their West Hollywood home with treasures ever since they bought it in 2012, two years before their daughter, Lillian, was born. A major renovation of the 1912 structure—which involved tearing down walls to open up rooms—gave them a clean, bright backdrop for decorating. With one dramatic exception…

BALSAMIC GRILLED SKIRT STEAK SERVES 6 / 35 MINUTES, PLUS 4 HOURS TO MARINATE 1⁄2 cup extra-virgin olive oil1⁄3 cup balsamic vinegar3 garlic cloves, finely chopped3⁄4 tsp. kosher salt, plus more to taste1⁄2 tsp. freshly ground pepper, plus more to taste4 sprigs thyme1 skirt steak (2 lbs.), cut in half crosswise 1. In a large bowl, whisk together olive oil, vinegar, garlic, 3/4 tsp. salt, and 1/2 tsp. pepper. Add thyme and steak; turn to coat. Chill, covered, at least 4 hours and up to 12 hours. Let stand at room temperature during last hour. 2. Heat a grill to high (450° to 550°) and oil cooking grates, using a wad of oiled paper towels and long tongs. Lift steak from marinade, letting excess drip off, and season generously with…

SERVES 8, WITH EXTRA COOKIES / 1 1⁄4 HOURS 1 1⁄3 cups hazelnuts1 1⁄3 cups powdered sugar1 large egg white2 big pinches fine sea salt2 tsp. vanilla extract1 1⁄2 cups vanilla whole-milk Greek yogurt1⁄4 cup granulated sugar1 lb. red pluots, pitted and slicedHoney (optional) 1. Make cookies: Preheat oven to 325°. Bake hazelnuts on a rimmed baking sheet until deep golden throughout, 12 to 16 minutes. Rub in a kitchen towel to remove loose skins. Let nuts cool, but don’t turn off oven. 2. In a food processor, whirl nuts and powdered sugar until finely ground. Beat egg white in a medium bowl with a mixer until frothy; then stir in nut mixture, salt, and vanilla until evenly moistened. 3. Drop mixture by 1-tbsp. portions onto 2 rimmed baking sheets…

Sea urchin Once rarely seen outside of sushi restaurants and more often exported straight to Japan, sea urchin (aka uni) has become one of the most popular mollusks on menus no matter if they are French, Italian, or California-focused. With a flavor that’s a distinctive mix of briny, sweet, and buttery, the sea creatures are harvested off the coast near Santa Barbara. One of the most enlightening matches I’ve had was sea urchin pasta with a glass of off-dry Riesling. The uni had melted into the spaghetti strands, coating them in a creamy saline sauce, and the wine lent just a hint of sweetness. I’ve been trying to re-create the contrast of flavors ever since and would attempt again with a bottle of Smith-Madrone Riesling 2014 (Spring Mountain District, Napa Valley;…

HOT TABLE Chances are you didn’t travel to Mexico City to eat fusion food—but the new Masala y Maíz is reason enough to reconsider. Set on a quiet corner in residential San Miguel Chapultepec, the restaurant is the brainchild of chefs and real-life couple Saqib Keval and Norma Listman, who recently relocated from Oakland. Named for their varied backgrounds—the spice mix refers to his Indian and East African heritage, while corn honors Listman, a Mexico native—the restaurant’s small but mighty menu reflects the complementary flavors of their ancestral cuisines. “Every ingredient we choose has so much shared history of our food traditions,” says Keval. A communal table with a built-in grill for tortillas and flatbreads sets the stage for rich, layered dishes such as cardamom meringue filled with lemon curd,…

Easily the most sumptuous Downtown Los Angeles hotel debut in decades, NoMad LosAngeles breathes life into a 12-story neoclassical building dating from 1922 that was formerly the Bank of Italy. French architect Jacques Garcia gave the Corinthian-columned structure an elaborate update that preserves the grandeur of its heritage while introducing a visual language full of quirky references and clever winks. (And that’s even before we get to the hidden, speakeasy-style corridors that restaurateur Will Guidara unveils with a magician’s delight for a few fortunate guests.) The Venetian-style Coffee Bar with Murano glass chandeliers provides the inspiration for the streetside cafe; statement rattan peacock chairs by the rooftop pool echo the stuffed peacock in the library created by local taxidermist Allis Markham, whose other clients range from the Huntington Library to…

CREATIVE PORK On Corazon Cocina’s modern menu, the al pastor pork with pickled habanero-pineapple salsa is a star. corazoncocinasb.com. BEEF Order paratha (a flaky Indian flatbread) rather than a tortilla to trick out Goa Taco’s smoky, spicy take on mojo beef. goataco.com. VEGGIE Convert carnivores with Mesa Verde’s patatas bravas: potato, black beans, kale, garlicky salvitxada sauce. mesaverderestaurant.com. CLASSIC PORK La Super-Rica’s especial—bathed in gooey cheese fondue—demonstrates why even Julia Child was a fan of this spot. (805) 963-4940. BEEF Beef options at Lilly’s Taqueria range from lengua (tongue) to tripe; you can’t beat the juicy carne asada and a Mexican Coke. lillystacos.com. VEGGIE Head straight for Taquería Cuernavaca’s #1: a jack cheese, pasilla, and potato gift from the gods. cuernavacataqueria.com.…

The house was small, the grass expansive. Still, as Loree Bohl and her husband, Andrew, were hunting in a hot Portland real estate market, they could tell they’d found the right place. “It was a lot of lawn and a lot of weeds,” Loree recalls. “But when we drove up, it just seemed like home.” Nevertheless, the blogger and Pacific Horticulture Society board member had a vision for her Concordia neighborhood home after a series of trips to Phoenix opened up her imagination to a desert-inspired landscape. “I absolutely love spiky, architectural, and dangerous plants,” she says of the Southwest’s prickly and rare-to-Portland palette. “Then I saw a nearby house had a beautiful, established Agave parryi, and I thought if they can do it, why can’t I?” Other gardeners might…

ROCKY MOUNTAINS Your CHECKLIST PLANT To make a bold statement with containers, try the following varieties of X Mangave, a lesser-known hybrid succulent that resembles agaves. Foliage of Manfreda undulata ‘Mint Chocolate Chip’ is wavy and purple-spotted; ‘Kaleidoscope’ is variegated green, yellow, and pink; and ‘Silver Fox’ has serrated edges. Grow mangaves in full or partial sun during the summer and bring indoors before the season’s first frost. Move tender summer bulbs—such as alocasia, tuberous begonia, caladium, calla, canna, dahlia, and pineapple lily—into outdoor containers. Remove from their winter pots and plant, or, for easier cleanup in the fall, simply bury the entire container. Sow seeds of beans, corn, cucumber, and squash directly into the ground after danger of frost is past. Cover with lightweight horticultural fabric to prevent bird…

SERVES 8 (MAKES 1 1⁄2 QTS) / 30 MINUTES, PLUS 1 HOUR TO STAND 2 lbs. rainbow carrots, peeled and sliced into thin rounds to make 6 cups2 1⁄2 tsp. kosher salt1 cup sliced pepperoncini1⁄3 cup slivered pitted kalamata olives1 cup (5 oz.) chopped sliced provolone cheese3⁄4 cup canned chickpeas, rinsedOregano Vinaigrette (right)Homemade Croutons (right)1⁄2 cup each packed flat-leaf parsley leaves and torn fresh basil leaves 1. In a colander, toss carrots with salt. Put a plate and 1-lb. can of food on top of carrots and let drain in sink 1 hour to soften somewhat. Rinse carrots well, then roll in kitchen towels to dry. 2. In a large bowl, combine carrots, pepperoncini, olives, cheese, chickpeas, and half of vinaigrette. 3. Just before serving, add croutons, parsley, and basil…

AS A SOMMELIER WHO works at NoMad in Los Angeles, I spend a lot of time matching up wine with items from a fine-dining menu. Certain wines are known to elevate particular ingredients, of course—think of Muscadet and oysters, Sauternes and foie gras, and Cabernet paired with a juicy steak. It’s also thrilling what a little effervescence can do to a dish. (Try Champagne with french fries; it’s bliss.) But I’ll be honest: I don’t come from the school of thought that there are rules for eating and drinking. And considering that the West yields some of the country’s most sought-after delicacies, from seafood to cheese, why not pair this culinary bounty with wines from resident vintners producing intriguing sips from esoteric grapes? Like any great couple, you can easily…

TRAVEL ALASKA 101 Explore Fairbanks BED & BREAKFAST INNS 102 Sorensen’s Resort—Hope Valley BRITISH COUMBIA 103 Marine Link Tours CALIFORNIA 104 Alpine County Chamber of Commerce 105 California Trail Heritage Alliance 106 Fairfield—Gateway to the Napa Valley 107 Long Beach Convention & Visitors Bureau 108 Redding CVB 109 Renaissance Club Sport Hotel 110 Stockton Visitors Bureau 111 Trees of Mystery 112 Visit California 113 Visit Lodi 114 Visit Petaluma INTERNATIONAL TRAVEL 115 Rancho la Puerta MONTANA 116 Central Montana NEW MEXICO 117 Santa Fe Opera 118 OREGON 119 Morrison’s Rogue Wilderness Adventures 120 Sea Lion Caves 121 WASHINGTON 122 Arts Downtown: Puyallup’s Outdoor Gallery 123 Grant County Tourism Commission 124 Rosario Resort and Spa 125 San Juan Cruises 126 Seattle City Lights/Skagit Tours WYOMING 127 Travel Wyoming GARDEN 128 Italian…

Stars, meteors, comets, and the cloudy Milky Way—if you live in a major metropolis, or even in the suburbs, chances are you’re not seeing much of them at night, thanks to light pollution. To help preserve our view of the galaxies, the 30-year-old International Dark-Sky Association (IDA) identifies national parks, remote sanctuaries, and individual communities as the last remaining places where the stars are still on full display. The IDA lists 96 sites worldwide, and with 11 new additions in California, Idaho, Arizona, and Utah, the West now has the highest concentration of sites in the country. Joshua Tree National Park, for example, was named an International Dark Sky Park last August. Then, in December, a 1,416-square-mile swath of Central Idaho became the 12th International Dark Sky Reserve, stretching from…

10:30 A.M. Start with a cortado at Handlebar Coffee Roasters, a trendy spot opened by two former cycling pros. handlebarcoffee.com. 11:30 A.M. Across the street, dig into SoCal’s distant past with a visit to El Presidio de Santa Bárbara State Historic Park, home to the remnants of a red-tiled Spanish fortress built way back in 1782. sbthp.org. 1 P.M. Opposite the fortress, pull up a stool at Three Pickles Subs & Sandwiches’ marble bar for a hot Presidio Pastrami. threepickles.com. 2 P.M. Meet the latest stores on the block, starting with Jake & Jones, a sunny boutique that’s heavy on California-made clothing, toys, and bohemian goods like raffia shoulder bags by Mar Y Sol. At Make Smith, pick up leather goods like chic backpacks and a hanging-plant holder based on…

IT WAS MY FAMILY’S FIRST full-fledged reunion in years: 18 relatives camping at the northern end of Shasta Lake, the sprawling, tentacled body of water that is the largest human-made reservoir in California. It was July and the state was mired in a brutal, multiyear drought. Walls of red mud ran up the banks, an ugly reminder of where deep blue had once been. But each day, we all raced for the nearest marina, where we had rented a modest pontoon that looked like a glorified carport. It was as basic as they come, but it could get us out onto the lake, away from the muddy shores, and that was good enough. I remember sitting on the deck—my 1-year-old daughter, Roxie, on my lap—while my dad and two of…

SHRIMP SOBA NOODLE SALAD SERVES 4 / 40 MINUTES Everyone needs a few hot-weather dinners like this cooling, crunchy salad. Use the freshest, sweetest corn you can find, since the kernels go in raw, and serve with lime wedges to add a bright burst of acidity. 1 lb. peeled, deveined medium (36 to 42 per lb.) shrimp8 oz. dried buckwheat noodles2 tbsp. each mirin, lime juice, and orange juice3 tbsp. each soy sauce and toasted sesame oil1 tbsp. grated fresh gingerAbout 1⁄4 tsp. kosher salt1⁄2 cup thinly sliced green onions11⁄2 cups yellow corn kernels4 medium red radishes, very thinly sliced11⁄2 cups diced English cucumber1⁄2 cup chopped fresh basil, plus small leaves for toppingLime wedges, for serving 1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add shrimp; cook…

MAKES 4 JARS (8 OZ. EACH) / 1 1⁄4 HOURS, PLUS 12 HOURS TO CHILL 2 1⁄2 lbs. juicy, firm-ripe apricots2 1⁄3 cups sugar2 tbsp. plus2 tsp. MCP pectin or Sure-Jell Premium Fruit Pectin3 tbsp. lemon juice12 in. of fresh rosemary sprigs 1. Halve and pit apricots, then quarter each half (for 51/2 to 6 cups). In a deep bowl, combine sugar and pectin. Gently stir in apricots and lemon juice, then rosemary, to mix well. Chill, covered, 12 to 24 hours for fruit to get juicy, stirring partway through. 2. Set a spoon on a small plate in freezer. Transfer apricot mixture to a deep 5-to 6-qt. pot. Cook over high heat, stirring occasionally, until boiling. Boil 8 minutes, reducing heat if needed to reduce spattering or prevent boil-over,…

The ranches of Colorado produce some of America’s finest lamb, typically milder in taste and richer in marbling than the imported variety from New Zealand or Australia. I can think of few more tempting feasts than braised lamb roasting for hours with thyme and rosemary, matched with the deep black fruits, herbs, and fresh spice of Mourvèdre. Although the grape is most associated with the wines of Provence and southern Rhône, it has found a home in Eastern Washington. Best to have on hand a few more bottles of the recently released “L’Idiot Du Village” Mourvèdre 2015 from Gramercy Cellars (Columbia Valley; $42) because you never know when a craving for chops or a rack will strike.…

Soaring sequoias, thunderous waterfalls, brilliant night skies—there’s nothing quite like summertime in the Sierra Nevada. Looking ahead to our July road trips issue, Sunset partnered with Rush Creek Lodge at Yosemite National Park in Northern California to offer one lucky group of four a taste of mountain splendor. The prize package (worth $5,000) includes four nights in a spacious villa near the park’s western entrance, meals, naturalist-led tours, and gear for the whole gang. Get the official rules and enter the Instagram contest (May 16–June 13) at sunset.com/rushcreekcontest.…