Table of contents for July 2019 in go!

I’m a sucker for history. Or herstory, ourstory – even theirstory. A tired school curriculum filled with dusty old dates nearly killed my enthusiasm for the past, but when I got to Rhodes University and met Professor Rodney Davenport – then the head of the history department – I knew that I should immediately forget everything I’d learnt at school. Just because one guy (it’s almost always a man) prevailed as the victor and recorded his version of events, doesn’t mean that’s the truth. Similarly, history isn’t just a bunch of dates grouped around treaties that need to be memorised. No, it’s about how our ancestors lived. They were beings of flesh and blood, who feared, loved, hoped and dreamt as they walked and sometimes staggered through life. Just like…

There are two lunar eclipses in 2019. The first was a total lunar eclipse, which occurred on 21 January, but the timing wasn’t great for people watching in South Africa. The eclipse began just as the moon was setting, so the spectacle was hard to appreciate. Luckily, South Africa is perfectly positioned for the eclipse of 16/17 July – we’ll be able to witness the event from beginning to end. It will only be a partial lunar eclipse this time, which means that the moon will only move through a part of the earth’s full shadow (umbra), and thus only be about 75 % obscured. Still, it will be enough to create that distinctive red glow. The rusty colour is caused by the earth’s atmosphere – it’s the same reason…

What made you decide to travel in your native land? It was a natural progression. After I’d explored all those other African countries, it was time to explore my own. In fact, it seemed a bit strange that I’d been everywhere else without first having travelled in South Africa. Better late than never! You started the trip with your family, but continued alone. Why do you prefer to travel solo? I don’t have to worry about group dynamics. I can make decisions as I go along. For example, I can decide on a whim to pull over and take a photo of the sunset. Other people struggle with such things. Another example: I can drive for long distances with the radio off, whereas other people love listening to the radio…

The reserve has a trail for every kind of hiker. If you like to spend time in nature but you don’t want to work up a sweat, do one of the shorter trails: the Guarrie Trail (0,7 km) goes through the veld near the reception office; the Spekboom Trail (1,3 km) is an extension of the Guarrie and leads to a bench under a wild plum tree with a view of the Swartberg. Some of the plants on these two trails are marked, and you’ll also get a Bossie Identification Guide full of interesting facts upon arrival. Did you know you can use the seed oil of the wild plum tree to oil your rifle and spruce up your hair? The Heritage Trails – Mousebird (2,5 km) and Pied Barbet…

“When it comes to nature, there’s no guarantee of a specific sighting, but the Kgalagadi will always provide amazing opportunities. Every animal, big or small, has its own niche in the ecosystem. Some hunt from the air, others on the ground, and always against the most beautiful backdrop. “The night skies over Rooiputs will stay with me forever. The night after our cheetah encounter, we were at the campsite when we suddenly had to dash for the vehicles when lions approached. For about an hour, they roared around our caravan – a thrilling, primal sound.”…

“It’s a real privilege to spend time in nature and take photos. For these shots, I used a Nikon D800 camera and a 200 – 400 mm f4 lens. I try to always have my camera on hand, covered with a towel to keep the dust out. I also pre-select a fast shutter speed so I can just pick it up and start firing if I see action in the veld. “Besides the wide variety of animals to photograph in the Kgalagadi, another highlight for photographers is the quality of light. You won’t find better!”…

12 days/11 nights (tented accommodation) DATES 1 – 12 November 2019 14 – 25 November 2019 RATES R19 895 per adult sharing; half-price for children under 10 THE RATES INCLUDE • All camp fees • All park entrance fees • All advertised activities • Tents, cutlery and crockery • Coffee and tea all day every day while in camp WHAT SHOULD I BRING? • Your vehicle and fuel • Mattresses and/or stretchers and sleeping bags and pillows • Camping chairs • Drinks and snacks • Out of country/medical emergency and evacuation insurance cover • Border crossing fees and road taxes I want to go! Call 044 535 9033 (telephone or fax) or e-mail bookings@bhejane.com; bhejane.com…

CAMP AMONG THE DAISIES Enjoy a spectacular display of wildflowers in the Namaqua National Park, with a field guide. You’ll stay at two camps: Skilpad and Groenriviermond. WHEN? • Tuesday 20 August to Friday 23 August 2019 (4 days, 3 nights) • Tuesday 27 August to Friday 30 August (4 days, 3 nights) INCLUDED • All accommodation (in luxury tents, with plush bedding and an en suite bathroom with hot water) • Two meals per day, plus coffee and rusks in the morning • Field guide services • Cash bar EXCLUDED Gate fees and conservation fees for Namaqua National Park. COST R21 800 per tent, per package (for two people); R15 500 single. Maximum 15 tents and 30 guests. BOOK NOW!  To book, call 083 652 5489; e-mail info@experiences.co.za; visit www.chiefstentedcamp.co.za for more info and Ts &…

In 1859, Dirk Cornelius Uys – a veteran of the Battle of Blood River – decided that a grass plain in a basin of mountains would be as good a place as any to establish the sixth oldest town in what was then Transvaal. The moment called for some on-the-spot town planning, but Uys – known as “Swart Dirk” – didn’t have paper to sketch out real estate. So, after a black-powder blast from his Sanna rifle, and the thud of a falling eland, Swart Dirk measured out properties and streets using long strips of hide from one of South Africa’s largest antelopes. And so, Wakkerstroom in Mpumalanga joined the list of places founded where an animal was shot – a catalogue shared by Tbilisi in Georgia (King Vakhtang Gorgasali…

You grew up reading this magazine… Yes! I attended the launch of WegBreek (as Weg was called then), in Greyton, when I was eight years old. My godmother was involved with the magazine at that time; I’m pretty sure there’s a photo of me eating popcorn around a campfire in the first issue. What’s your favourite thing about the magazine? For me, the beauty of Weg and go! has always been the human side of the stories. You really get to know the writers. If Toast Coetzer ends up somewhere obscure in the Free State and something odd happens to him, as a reader you say to yourself, “Ah, classic Toast.” Now, you’re part of the team and you can tell your own stories! The fact that I get paid…

The Wildlife Protection Project (WPP) is an anti-poaching initiative that uses science and data technology to make defending South Africa’s rhinos less militant and more sustainable, both practically and financially. Welgevonden Game Reserve in Limpopo is currently hosting and contributing towards the project’s pilot phase, which involves a collaboration between MTN, IBM and Wageningen University in the Netherlands. How does it work? The project uses predictive analytics technology for early detection of poaching activity. It sounds complicated, but the idea is simple: Data collected from collared herbivores (zebra, impala, wildebeest and eland) suggests that the behaviour of a prey animal, and its spatial distribution, changes when it encounters a predator. This basic survival instinct was harnessed by researchers who asked, what if the definition of “predator” was broadened to include…

Wikiloc is an online platform to discover and share great outdoor trails with fellow nature enthusiasts. How does it work? Download the app, sign up and you’ll gain access to millions of trails around the world. Explore exciting routes in your region that you might not have heard of before, or upload your own. All you need to do is activate the app while you walk, run or cycle, and it will track your trail. You can also add photos and comments to give others a better idea of what it is they’ll be getting themselves into. You can filter searches according to region, difficulty, date and distance – perfect if you’re researching a family outing or an adventure-filled holiday. We’re on there, too! Check out this month’s “Take a…

NEW MOON 2 JULY SPRING TIDE: 4 JULY HIGH TIDES: 4.12 AM & 4.49 PM FULL MOON 16 JULY  SPRING TIDE: 17 JULY HIGH TIDES: 3.30 AM & 3.58 PM FIRST QUARTER 9 JULY NEAP TIDE: 11 JULY HIGH TIDES: 11.18 AM & 11.35 PM LAST QUARTER 25 JULY NEAP TIDE: 26 JULY HIGH TIDES: 10.09 AM & 10.40 PM These are the high tide times for Cape Town. For other places, add or subtract minutes: Saldanha: +5; Hermanus: -4; Port Elizabeth: +19; Durban: +26 Tide information reproduced with permission from the Hydrographer, SA Navy. The Hydrographer is not responsible for any transcription errors. sanho.co.za SUNRISE & SUNSET (16 JULY) Cape Town 7.49 am & 5.56 pm Bloemfontein 7.07 am & 5.35 pm Johannesburg 6.54 am & 5.34 pm Durban…

Food for Thought By Martin Versfeld First published 1983 (Tafelberg), reissued in 2004 (Double Storey Books) Cooking is a fine art and not a penance to be got over with as quickly as possible. It should be a linked sweetness, long drawn out. There are occasions – omelettes for instance – when speed, never hurry, is called for, but by and large good cooking is slow cooking. The culinary art is corrupted by the widely held belief that time is money. Time isn’t money any more than artichokes are angels. The belief is metaphysically monstrous and socially disastrous. If you haven’t time for cooking you must be poor indeed. This extract from the first chapter of Martin Versfeld’s (1909 – 1995) delightful book sets the tone for what has been…

HYENA VS BLACK-BACKED JACKAL, LIJERSDRAAI DUNE ROAD In June 2018, we stayed at Grootkolk, one of the wilderness camps in the park. One morning we decided to drive south. At the Lijersdraai picnic site, we followed the short dune road to see if it had anything interesting to offer. After we’d driven about 2 km, we came across an unusual scene: a young spotted hyena lying on its own next to the carcass of a red hartebeest 1 . The hyena was unusually dark in colour. The carcass was half-eaten and vultures started to descend. We couldn’t figure out why the hyena was alone. Where were the lions? Or, if lions hadn’t caught the hartebeest, where were the other hyenas? The hyena was sated and sleepy, but it didn’t have…

“Our first trip to the Kgalagadi was in 2015 when we joined friends on a camping trip. My husband and I, and our two adventure-loving teenage sons, fell in love with the park and we’ve been back every year since. “It’s a wonderful place for a photographer because it offers so many opportunities – not only predators, but also abundant birdlife at the waterholes and meerkats that share their dens with ground squirrels in the camps. You’ll be entertained for hours. “We normally visit the park in December when it’s hot and dry. Every now and then, you get to experience a true Kalahari thunderstorm, with lightning that dances across the horizon followed by heavy rain that brings relief to the animals. “Most of all, we love the Kgalagadi for…

WILLEM VAN DER BERG Willem’s debut portfolio – wild places in Botswana – was published in go! #152. Follow him on Instagram: @wilcoberg Photojournalist Willem van der Berg probably spends more time on the road than at home in Bloemfontein. “I love driving around,” he says. “When it rains, I want to be on the wet dirt roads to see where the showers fell. In autumn, my wife Daleen and I head to the Eastern Free State to see the cosmos, and the poplar trees changing colour. In winter, places like the Richtersveld, the Kalahari, Namibia and Botswana are hard to beat. Most mornings I wake up longing for a narrow road through the veld; a road where I can roll down the windows and let the clean air clear…

Get technical The North Face ThermoBall Hoody This men’s jacket looks like a down jacket, feels like a down jacket, insulates like a down jacket… but it’s not a down jacket. It’s actually filled with small round clusters of synthetic material, creating thousands of tiny air pockets that trap heat just like down. The upside of a synthetic fill is that you can get the jacket wet – and it will perform just as well. It’s a technical jacket for outdoor pursuits with nice details like hidden elastic cuffs on the wrists, an inside zip chest pocket, a drawcord hem that you can tighten to prevent air from escaping, and snuggly hand pockets with zips. The hood will be your best friend on a freezing morning in the Cederberg. Stuffed…

Readers will receive a special field guide survival pack with all the tools you’ll need in the veld, worth R2 000. Use the reference GO GUIDE when you book. YOU NEED • Basic to good English language skills • Valid driving licence • A passion to learn about and interpret African fauna and flora Fees: R74 950 (2019); R79 950 (2020) WHAT IS INCLUDED • All registration and exam fees • All on-site meals and limited (non-alcoholic) drinks • Accommodation at Esingeni Tented Camp, adjacent to Shamwari Private Game Reserve • Full in-country support…

Explore the Okavango Delta, the great rivers of the Caprivi region, and mighty Victoria Falls, while our experts make sure you’re safe, well fed and comfortable at all times. This self-drive tour is one of the most popular on the Bhejane itinerary, for good reason: It allows you to have a true African adventure at a reasonable price, and you don’t need any technical off-road driving skills. Travel from the vast Makgadikgadi Pans around the Okavango Delta and up the Panhandle, pausing at the mysterious Tsodilo Hills – a world-renowned rock art site. You’ll travel east through the Caprivi in Namibia, and back to Botswana via the ever-impressive Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe. The tour ends with a cruise on the Chobe River, where you  can toast the sunset while elephants…

Judy-Lynn Wheeler “The town is growing; there are wonderful people coming to live here. Businesses have expanded, which is great for any small town. Yet despite the influx of people, the wetlands and the grasslands remain relatively pristine.” Vusi Sibiya “I started with Working On Fire here in 2014. The fire season starts in June officially. During the fire season, we work Monday to Sunday. We work with farmers to remove alien plants and prepare block burns and firebreaks. This is a good job opportunity; you get people going through the training programme and getting secure jobs.” Nigel Mason “Historians will love it here. You can visit the Blood River and Rorke’s Drift battlefields in a day. You could do that and Isandlwana – it’s about a two-hour drive from…

Let’s have a chat about LBJs (excuse the pun). Last month, things got a bit heavy in our therapy session, when we discussed the frustration of identifying individuals in this seemingly impossible group of birds. With more than 200 species of Little Brown Jobs, where do you even begin? Mention was made of a magic formula, but I fear that was just a ploy to get you to buy this month’s issue! There’s no magic formula when it comes to LBJs, but there are some useful tricks to get you started. Wands out! Birding is far more than matching what you see in the field to a picture in a book. Indeed, the two most critical identifying criteria don’t even require you to look at the bird at all. Ask…

Few creatures are as elusive and mesmerizing as the pangolin. Due to the commercial value of their scales, however, their obscurity is in danger of becoming absolute, and their numbers are dwindling under the ruthless pressure of poaching and illegal trade. In reaction to this fact, filmmakers Bruce Young (Blood Lions) and Johan Vermeulen (Kalahari Trails) sought to do what has never been done before: capture all four species of African pangolin on camera for the first time. Their ground-breaking documentary, Eye of the Pangolin: The Search for an Animal on the Edge, is now available for streaming online as an open-source film. The goal is to make the film the most widely viewed wildlife documentary to date. “The pangolin is the most trafficked mammal on the planet,” said Bruce…

There are more than 170 different snakes in southern Africa. Identifying a venomous snake is no easy task, especially since there can be vast colour variation within a single species. There are some common myths about which snakes are venomous and which aren’t, like whether the pupil is round or vertical, or whether the head is shaped a certain way. But these are just that – myths. It’s always best to consult an expert. While 72 of our resident snakes contain no venom, they can still bite. There are 51 venomous species, which we call “back-fanged”. However, most of these – like the herald snake, tiger snake and sand snake – are not lethal to humans. The boomslang and twig snake are considered potentially deadly, but they seldom bite people…

How long have you been working together? Bruce: Two years now. When I arrived at Londolozi in 2017, Rob had already been working here as a tracker for more than a decade. He had worked with many guides before me, and it took me some time to understand his style and his way of doing things. He had to push me into good habits. He’s one of the last remaining trackers of his kind; someone who has grown up in the bush and learnt the relevant skills from a young age. We had our differences (even some shouting matches), but through everything, we had the same goal: to create the best guest experience possible. We both understood that forging a strong partnership was essential to realising this goal. Has the…

To the Wild by Michael Parfitt, Reach Publishers, R360, at mparfitt120@gmail.com In September 2016, Michael Parfitt, his wife and two teenage children embarked on a once-in-a-lifetime adventure. They left Cape Town in a Land Rover Defender named Schalk, for a 100-day, 18 000 km journey through South Africa, Namibia, Botswana, Zimbabwe and Swaziland. After having been consumed by work at an executive level for almost two decades, Michael decided to spend quality time with his family in some of Africa’s most sublime wilderness areas, including the Namib Desert, the Central Kalahari Game Reserve and Mana Pools National Park. The book consists of a detailed day-by-day account of their camping adventure, including lists of animal encounters, more than 500 colour photographs and 34 easy-to-follow recipes for bush-cooking. Fancy kudu loin with…

Western Stars  by Bruce Springsteen R110 at iTunes; also on streaming services By the time you read this, Bruce Springsteen (69) will have released his 19th studio album: Western Stars. According to the press release, the album “encompasses a sweeping range of American themes, of highways and desert spaces, of isolation and community and the permanence of home and hope.” At the time of writing, only two tracks were available: “There Goes My Miracle” and “Hello Sunshine”. The latter is already playing on repeat when I’m driving. It’s a deeply moving country-folk ballad. According to Will Hermes of Rollingstone.com, it’s performed with “zen melancholy”, and the lyrics are The Boss at his best: “You know I always liked that empty road / No place to be and miles to go…

Tom Barry, reserve manager “I regularly visit other parks and reserves, but I find it frustrating when you’re not allowed to get out of your vehicle because of predators. Our family is always happy to return to Gamkaberg, where you can explore almost anywhere on foot.” Cornelius Julies, ranger “I have a personal connection to the reserve – my grandfather and father also worked here. I was basically born in the reserve. I live in the house where I grew up. I often went with my father into the veld. I learnt a lot from him, especially about mountain zebras. I can’t imagine being anywhere else.”…

“The Kgalagadi is a land of thirst, vast plains and camel thorn trees, and barking geckos at sunset. “We visit the park every year. The best part is being the first ones out of the gate in the morning, when you can see tracks on the sandy roads around Nossob and Mata-Mata – signs of the animal activity that took place in the night. “As soon as I see big cat tracks going the same direction we’re driving, the adrenaline kicks in, and so do the tracking skills. We’ve found big cats this way many times. You round a bend and there’s a lion sauntering down the road, with its black mane blowing in the wind. “The park holds endless surprises. If you have patience, the Kgalagadi is the place…

“It’s a long drive to the Kgalagadi, but we always look forward to our visit. The red dunes, open spaces, animals, birdlife – especially the raptors – all offer a challenge to me as an amateur photographer. In the park, I can enjoy my hobby to the fullest. “We’ve visited the park in every season, but August is my favourite time. It’s not too hot and the vegetation is not too dense. Water is also limited to the waterholes. Nossob is my favourite camp because you can explore easily to the north or the south.”…

Have you been somewhere you think other go! readers would enjoy? Write about the experience and we might publish your story. Please keep it short (1 500 words maximum) and send us some sample photos. If we do decide to publish, we’ll need the original, high-resolution photos so make sure your camera is on the right setting. We reserve the right to use your photos elsewhere in the magazine, on our digital platforms and in marketing material. E-mail your story to editor@gomag.co.za…

Drunken chicken Serves 4 Preparation time 25 minutes Cooking time 1 hour 20 minutes This dish has a delicious sauce, perfect for mopping up with a piece of crusty bread. You need • 15 ml butter • 15 ml olive oil • 4 slices of pork belly (400 g), cubed • 2 carrots, peeled and chopped • 2 celery stalks, chopped • 12 small onions, peeled • 4 chicken leg-and-thigh portions • 30 ml flour • 500 ml red wine • 250 ml chicken stock • 5 sprigs of thyme • 3 bay leaves • 15 ml butter • 250 g button mushrooms, halved • salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste • French loaf Here’s how 1 Melt the butter and olive oil in a pot. Fry the pork, carrots, celery and onions until brown. Remove the ingredients from the pot, but retain the…

Evolution is supposed to be a gradual process. Things change at a glacial pace, not in leaps and bounds like a springhare being chased by a black-backed jackal. The same principle applies to the motoring industry, where a new model is replaced every five or six years, usually only with minor changes. Attending a motoring launch and thinking, “Wow, they’ve really pushed the boundaries with this one” is as rare as an Australian cricket player without a piece of sandpaper in his pocket. There are precious few cars that find themselves in a premier league of their own when they are launched. BMW’s first M3 – the E30 – from 1986 comes to mind, as does the Volkswagen Golf V GTI in 2005 and the first Toyota Fortuner in 2006.…

DAY 1 We meet at Namwi Island Camp near Katima Mulilo in Namibia. We spend our first evening socialising around the fire and getting to know each other as the sun sets over the Zambezi River. DAY 2 We make an early start and hand out two-way radios after breakfast. We refuel in Katima Mulilo and cross the border into Zambia. As the border post procedures can take a while, we will only be travelling a further 115 km to our next overnight stop at Kabula Lodge campsite. We’ll go on a sundowner boat cruise on the Zambezi River before dinner. DAY 3 Today we visit a well-kept secret of the Zambezi River, Ngonye Falls. It’s not as big as Victoria Falls, but it’s wilder and you won’t have to…

11 days/10 nights (tented accommodation) Start point: Letlhakane, Botswana End point: Kasane, Botswana DATES & RATES 8 – 18 October 2019 R14 938,50 per adult sharing; half-price for children under 10 21 – 30 March 2020 R15 950 per adult sharing; half-price for children under 10 THE RATES INCLUDE • The services of an experienced field guide • Two-way radios in all vehicles • All camp fees, park entrance fees and advertised activities • All tents and associated camping gear, including cutlery and crockery • Three meals a day, plus coffee and tea all day in camp WHAT SHOULD I BRING? • Your own vehicle, and fuel • Mattress, sleeping bag, camping chairs and a camping table • Drinks and snacks • Travel insurance and medical evacuation insurance (compulsory) • You’re responsible for border-crossing fees and road taxes I want…

Imagine having a mountain in your backyard. You can wake up, start walking and be high above the world within an hour, with a cup of piping hot coffee from a flask. For the people who live in Kleinmond on the Overberg coast, this is a reality. They have four accessible peaks standing guard over the town: Jean’s Hill (188 m) and the so-called Three Sisters, the three high points on Palmietberg. The circular trail to the Three Sisters starts in a small parking area in 15th Avenue, which runs along the base of Palmietberg. The trail gradually climbs the slopes of the mountain and delivers scenery from the very beginning. While you climb up stone steps with powerlines overhead and nearby houses still visible, you’ll see pink and white…

1 Go birding Explore the vlei area with its four bird hides on foot or in your vehicle. Pick up a free trail map at the info centre or from BirdLife South Africa, 1 km outside Wakkerstroom on the R543 to Volksrust. Follow the signs. To hire a birdwatching guide, get hold of Kristi Garland ( 081 726 5282; kristi.garland@birdlife.org.za). A half-day outing (6 am to 12.30 pm) costs R575 per person; full day (6 am to 5 pm) R940 per person. Contact Wakkerstroom Bird Club chairman Brian Guerin if you want to time your stay to coincide with the club’s activities ( 083 415 6701; wakkersbirdclub@gmail.com). The Bird Club is hosting a Birding Bonanza weekend from 11 to 13 October, with guest speakers, walks and workshops. 2 Walk or…

It’s November next to the Zambezi River, and it’s exactly as hot as you think it is. The first thundershowers of summer have yet to arrive, to cool down the earth and interrupt the bright stare of the sun. I was in Katima Mulilo over lunchtime to stock up on batteries for my headlamp, green peppers and carrots, and something to braai tonight. At the Pick n Pay, a Christmas tree kept watch at the entrance, next to the security guard who checked my slip. I also dropped by the liquor store for “cough medicine” and ice. At the till, there was a tipsy man with an (already open) Tafel langnek, who gave me one look and knew I was Afrikaans. He greeted me, and once again I realised that…

The Richtersveld might be beautiful, but it’s also one of the most inhospitable regions in the country. Despite the presence of the Orange River, water is scarce and summer temperatures on the ground often approach 50° C. Yet animals thrive here, like these klipspringers, photographed on a ridge north of Kokerboomkloof in the /Ai/Ais-Richtersveld Transfrontier Park. They bound from rock to rock on outcrops and koppies, as easily as if they’re strolling down the street.…