Table of contents for August 2019 in go!

There are times when readers see the world through the eyes of our writers, whether it’s a trip to the Bokkeveld Plateau around the flower town of Nieuwoudtville (p 34), or a visit to the Mountain Zebra National Park near Cradock (p 46). You’ll follow in our footsteps with the magazine as your guide, curious and excited to discover a place you might not have seen before. The flip side is equally true. We also enjoy seeing the world through your eyes, when you explore far-flung places like Patagonia, Turkey, Nepal, Portugal, Norway… Hardly a week goes by without us receiving an e-mail from a reader posing with a go! magazine and a big grin in a place thousands of kilometres from the southern tip of Africa. We realise again…

The Big Five of the African Sky Here in South Africa, if we can encounter the Big Five on land, then why not also in the heavens? That was the line of thought the Astronomical Society of Southern Africa (ASSA) took when they christened the “Big Five of the African Sky”, complete with a website ( assa.saao.ac.za) detailing how you can identify these phenomena. Each of the “Big Five” is a prime example of one of the five kinds of deep-sky objects: the Southern Pleaides (an open star cluster), Omega Centauri (a globular cluster), the Eta Carinae Nebula (a bright nebula), the Coal Sack (a dark nebula) and the Milky Way (a galaxy). August is a great time to spot them all; you can start searching as soon as it…

It goes without saying – if you can avoid a snakebite, do! Most snakebites happen at night during the summer months, when victims accidentally stand on the unsuspecting creatures. Always wear shoes and carry a torch. In the event of a snakebite, however, get the victim to the nearest hospital quickly and calmly. This goes for all snakebites. You don’t want to be caught out when the supposed mole snake you identified turns out to be a cobra. Bites from black mambas and Cape cobras are neurotoxic, meaning they cause progressive weakness in the body and can affect your breathing. You’re looking at about one and a half to six hours before this happens, although there have been cases in which it only took 30 minutes. Such victims need urgent…

Losing Earth by Nathaniel Rich Picador, R330 In August 2018, The New York Times published a ground-breaking article called “Losing Earth: The Decade We Almost Stopped Climate Change”. The 30 000-word piece was the result of an extensive research project that lasted 18 months, and it focused on a group of American scientists, activists  and politicians who worked tirelessly between 1979 and 1989 to attempt to prevent a climate change catastrophe. The author of the article, Nathaniel Rich, became an influential voice in the global climate change debate, almost overnight. The reaction to his research was overwhelming; a documentary TV series about him is currently in production. Now Rich has expanded his article into a book, which examines, in more detail, the decade in which humankind might have pulled…

The Great Railway Bazaar By Paul Theroux First published 1975 (Hamish Hamilton) Ever since childhood, when I lived within earshot of the Boston and Maine, I have seldom heard a train go by and not wished I was on it. Those whistles sing bewitchment: railways are irresistible bazaars, snaking along perfectly level no matter what the landscape, improving your mood with speed, and never upsetting your drink. The train can reassure you in awful places – a far cry from the anxious sweats of doom aeroplanes inspire, or the nauseating gas-sickness of the long-distance bus, or the paralysis that affects the car passenger. If a train is large and comfortable you don’t even need a destination; a corner seat is enough, and you can be one of those travelers…

MATJIESFONTEIN The accommodation here is managed by Papkuilsfontein, and you can expect the same five-star treatment. There are three units: De Lande Guesthouse (sleeps eight); Jan Voorman se Sinkhuis (sleeps four) – a red cottage on its own in the veld; and Matjiesfontein House (sleeps two). Rates: De Lande and Jan Voorman R1 150 per person; Matjiesfontein R1 335 per person. Rates include a three-course dinner, and breakfast Where? About 14 km south of Nieuwoudtville on the Suidbokveld Road. Contact: 072 555 1416; papkuilsfontein.com WHERE TO SEE FLOWERS? Drive the Matjiesfontein route (13 km) past fields of marigolds and bulbs like evening flowers, satynblomme and bulbinella. R25 per person, or R150 per person for a guided tour. Contact Leana van Wyk beforehand if you’re a big group: 027 218 1217;…

Standing at the back from left are Shaun Puffett and Donna Hoppe with Rebecca Hoppe (10), and at the right are Tania, Emile and Mila (13) Bessinger. Sitting in front: Aaron Hoppe (12) and Luka Bessinger (10). They are all from Port Elizabeth. “It’s our first time here and we’re enjoying it. We just wish we had a 4x4 so we could tackle the 4x4 trails, too. The campsite ablution block is clean and tidy, and the ground is level where we’re camping. It’s safe for the kids because the camp is fenced, and the swimming pool is lovely. We’ve also been making use of the picnic sites elsewhere in the park. “Our group of friends tries to head out into nature together three or four times a year. Because…

Stuffed Picanha Serves 8 Preparation time 20 minutes Cooking time 45 – 60 minutes This juicy cut is popular in Brazil and it’s becoming more common in local butcheries. The triangular piece of meat is cut from the top of the rump and you can either cook it whole or cut it into steaks. You need • about 1,2 kg Picanha roast • salt and freshly ground black pepper • 8 sundried tomato quarters in vinaigrette, chopped • ½ cup full-fat cream cheese • 250 g bacon strips, fried until crisp Here’s how 1 Light a fire in the kettle braai. 2 Put the Picanha on a clean chopping board with the fatty side facing up. Use a sharp knife to score the fat (don’t cut into the meat). Now make a deep cut through…

Despite being a relatively small motoring brand, Subaru is legendary for three reasons: rally racing; street racers with huge air scoops on their bonnets; and boxy, never-say-die family wagons. Indeed, the low-key Forester has always been a cult favourite among the SUV crowd, and the good news is that the latest model has been improved in almost every single way. Except one… To start with, it’s had some surgery, both cosmetic and internal. Even the most diehard Scooby fan will admit that the Forester has never been a looker. The new one is still not going to give Italian car designers sleepless nights, but the cosmetic tweaks have allowed it to grow into its function-first appearance; it has matured into a car that sits more comfortably in its metal. The…

CAMP AMONG THE DAISIES Enjoy a spectacular display of wildflowers in the Namaqua National Park, with a field guide. You’ll stay at two camps: Skilpad and Groenriviermond. WHEN? • Tuesday 20 August to Friday 23 August 2019 (4 days, 3 nights) • Tuesday 27 August to Friday 30 August (4 days, 3 nights) INCLUDED • All accommodation (in luxury tents, with plush bedding and an en suite bathroom with hot water) • Two meals per day, plus coffee and rusks in the morning • Field guide services • Cash bar EXCLUDED Gate fees and conservation fees for Namaqua National Park. COST R21 800 per tent, per package (for two people); R15 500 single. Maximum 15 tents and 30 guests. BOOK NOW!  To book, call 083 652 5489; e-mail info@experiences.co.za; visit www.chiefstentedcamp.co.za for more info and Ts &…

Explore the Okavango Delta, the great rivers of the Caprivi region, and mighty Victoria Falls, while our experts make sure you’re safe, well fed and comfortable at all times. This self-drive tour is one of the most popular on the Bhejane itinerary, for good reason: It allows you to have a true African adventure at a reasonable price, and you don’t need any technical off-road driving skills. Travel from the vast Makgadikgadi Pans around the Okavango Delta and up the Panhandle, pausing at the mysterious Tsodilo Hills – a world-renowned rock art site. You’ll travel east through the Caprivi in Namibia, and back to Botswana via the ever-impressive Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe. The tour ends with a cruise on the Chobe River, where you can toast the sunset while elephants…

DLINZA FOREST AERIAL BOARDWALK, ESHOWE Escape the humidity on the KZN North Coast and explore the inland hilltop forests around the sugar cane town of Eshowe. Instead of just traipsing around among the roots, you’ll get to peruse every part of these towering trees thanks to a safe and sturdy 125 m aerial boardwalk. The boardwalk lets you experience a cross section of Dlinza, a 250-hectare indigenous forest home to an astounding variety of birds and small animals. There’s history, too: Legend has it that Shaka hid women and children in the forest when an attack from his enemy Zwide was imminent. You start in the leafy undergrowth, where blue duikers scuttle about (Africa’s smallest antelope), and you spiral upwards, close to epiphytic orchids growing out of cracks in the…

ANIA NGOBENI, curio seller at Mac-Mac Falls “Visit the curio stalls at the waterfalls and picnic sites. We sometimes offer deals if you buy two or more items.” CHRIS BRITZ, manager at Curio D’Afrique “Visitors should meet the potter Grant Bosman. His studio, Earth & Fire, is just down Main Street. He once saw a leopard on a morning run – ask him about that!” AUKE VAN DER MEULEN, dentist “The Graskop Hotel is unique. The entire place is basically an art gallery: Each room is decorated in the theme of a particular South African artist.”…

“I was born and raised in KwaZulu-Natal. Our family has close ties to the bush; my grandparents were instrumental in instilling a love of nature in all their grandkids. After finishing university I began my career as a guide with &Beyond at Phinda in KZN. Later I moved to Sabi Sand, where I worked as a guide for three years until I made a decision to move back to the city. “I went back to working as a private guide, which is what I’ve been doing for the past four years. A friend and I started our own safari company called Escape Safari Co; we plan luxury safaris around the continent. “Every day in the bush is different; no two game drives are the same. There’s no question that the…

Because there have been attacks on tourists in the recent past, the Egyptian police are serious about their job. This means constant roadblock checks, where your vehicle licence and passport will be scrutinised and vehicle searched. We only had to travel with a police escort three times. It’s a bit irritating because they don’t allow you to stop where you please to take photos. You can request to sign a disclaimer that waives your right to an escort. This is not standard practice at every roadblock, so ask. We bought local SIM cards and gave these numbers out to police at each roadblock, only to be called at the strangest hours as the officials tried to track our movements through Egypt. All told, we felt safe everywhere – except for…

I’m heartbroken. It feels like I’ve had an emergency heart transplant without anaesthetic. Last week, I returned to my apartment after a long day. I was tired and sweaty, and my ankles were sore from carrying me around all day. I have a few rituals that I follow to make a day like this more bearable: a to-do list to rid me of stress. Usually I switch on the kettle, then I open the back door. I put on background music (maybe some David Gray) and I light an incense stick for ambiance. Then I breathe out and relax. Unless there’s a bottle of whisky in the cupboard – then relaxation can quickly turn into a party. But usually I stick to coffee. Next, I wander out onto the stoep…

Do you know the area well? I grew up in Nelspruit, now Mbombela, and my husband and I moved back there after having lived in Makhanda (Grahamstown) for eight years. We live on a farm about an hour and a half outside Graskop, so I know most of the waterfalls in the area. Even so, Lisbon and Motitsi were new ones I could tick off the list. The vibe in Graskop is… It might appear to be a sleepy little town, but it’s always bustling with tourists and activity. Like many country towns, it also attracts its fair share of extrovert personalities and artists. The owner of Joe Bangles Leather Craft, Joe Risseeuw, always wears a sarong around his waist, and a moonbag. The legend in town is that he…

NEW MOON 1 & 30 AUGUST SPRING TIDE: 2 AUGUST HIGH TIDES: 4.02 AM & 4.27 PM FULL MOON 15 AUGUST SPRING TIDE: 16 AUGUST HIGH TIDES: 3.45 AM & 4.06 PM FIRST QUARTER 7 AUGUST (“G” ORIENTATION) NEAP TIDE: 7 AUGUST HIGH TIDES: 8.10 AM & 8.36 PM LAST QUARTER 23 AUGUST (“D” ORIENTATION) NEAP TIDE: 23 AUGUST HIGH TIDES: 7.50 AM & 8.24 PM These are the high tide times for Cape Town. For other places, add or subtract minutes: Saldanha: +5; Hermanus: -4; Port Elizabeth: +19; Durban: +26 Tide information reproduced with permission from the Hydrographer, SA Navy. The Hydrographer is not responsible for any transcription errors. sanho.co.za SUNRISE & SUNSET (16 AUGUST) Cape Town 7.24 am & 6.17 pm Bloemfontein 6.47 am & 5.52 pm Johannesburg…

Why a survival guide? It’s all about taking action and, well, surviving. I’ve been increasingly worried about climate change – something you can’t help but worry about if you look at the science – and this is the kind of book that I wanted to read: a book that will empower me to do something, rather than just wring my hands on the sidelines. Who will find your book helpful? My litmus test for a science-related book is,“Would my mom understand and enjoy it?”I think we’ve succeeded. We tried to keep it simple but accurate, and make it accessible to anyone in the country who is interested in making some sort of difference. At the same time, however, we didn’t want to be didactic. Many people in South Africa (most,…

IN TOWN Antjie se eetplek Don’t expect gourmet cuisine from this place, which is probably the smallest eatery in town, but you will get down-to-earth food. There are only a handful of tables on the stoep and one or two inside. Try the steak roll: two thick slices of bread with steak in between. Smidswinkel Restaurant The flowers only lift their heads after 10 am, so there’s time to have a proper breakfast in town: eggs, sausages, bacon and toast (R100 per person). You pay a fee to sit outside in the garden, but the atmosphere inside is just as jovial – flags hang from the ceiling and art and old books adorn the walls. 027 218 1535 1897 Nedersetting Guest House and Restaurant Treat yourself to a slice of…

WHY? We publish a selection of reader pictures every month. Don’t be shy, haul out those shots you’ve been hoarding on your computer and send them to us! We like just about anything: wildlife, landscapes, portraits, holiday snaps or bugs in your garden. HOW? Send your best photos to takeyourpic@gomag.co.za Don’t send files bigger than 4 MB – if we need a bigger version, we’ll ask for it. Give the name, surname, home town and contact number of the photographer. Also include info about where and how the shot was taken, and what equipment was used. If you manipulated your photo in any way, tell us what you did. THE FINE PRINT We reserve the right to use your photos elsewhere in the magazine, on our digital platforms and marketing material.…

I’m all for the road less travelled. As you read this, I’ll be returning from a trip to Hungary and Poland. But even if I’m not able to actually visit a place, I can still go there in a glass, by trying unusual and exotic wines. Most of us are familiar with cabernet, chardonnay and sauvignon blanc, but how many have tried cinsault, grenache and trincadeira? As climate change continues to heat up our country and the world, we should get to know them because these hardy varieties are the grapes of the future. Give these three a try and experience a whole new raft of flavours. Let’s kick off with a delightfully fresh pink: Steenberg Ruby Rosé 2018 (R93). It’s nice and dry and packed with crisp red berries,…

Are you the big talker at the braai, always going on about your next adventure? Or are you the quiet doer, who simply packs the car and sets off when no one’s looking? When it comes to hitting the road, it’s easy to make excuses: the fuel price, that work function you “have” to attend… You don’t always have to take three weeks’ leave to experience the freedom of the road. Sure, it’s nice to know you’ll be heading to Namibia this year; that you’ll hear your tyres whistling on the tar of the B1 somewhere north of Keetmanshoop; that you’ll be on the D707 before sunset, with the Namib to the west, and the Tiras Mountains to the east… But it can be shorter than that. It doesn’t even…

This tour was developed as a partnership between Bhejane and specialist guide Cronje Wessels. It leads you into a wilderness of woodland, plains, lakes, rivers and swamps. The adventure starts in Livingstone and follows the Great North Road, first to Kasanka National Park and then further north, to where the water literally meets the sky. Although it’s one of Zambia’s smallest national parks, Kasanka is home to a diverse population of animals including the shy sitatunga, one of Africa’s rarest antelope, adapted to thrive in its aquatic environment. Kasanka is also where one of the most jaw-dropping migrations on earth happens: Between October and December each year, millions of fruit bats migrate to a swamp forest in the north of the park – a spectacle unlike any other. From Kasanka,…

• Kubu Island • Okavango Delta • Tsodilo Hills • Kavango River & Zambezi River • Victoria Falls • Chobe River TRANS-BOTSWANA 11 days/10 nights (tented accommodation) Start point: Letlhakane, Botswana End point: Kasane, Botswana DATES & RATES 8 – 18 October 2019 R14 938,50 per adult sharing; half-price for children under 10 21 – 30 March 2020 R15 950 per adult sharing; half-price for children under 10 THE RATES INCLUDE • The services of an experienced field guide • Two-way radios in all vehicles • All camp fees, park entrance fees and advertised activities • All tents and associated camping gear, including cutlery and crockery • Three meals a day, plus coffee and tea all day in camp WHAT SHOULD I BRING? • Your own vehicle, and fuel • Mattress, sleeping bag, camping chairs and a camping table • Drinks and snacks • Travel…

• Access to the Natural Bridge (2 km towards Sabie) is free. There’s a picnic bench that overlooks a place where a narrow stream flows through a hole in layers of rock. • The Pinnacle Rock (4 km from town along the R534) looks like a giant finger protruding from a forested valley, with plants growing on the fingertip. It’s about 30 m high and a stream flows down the cliffs beside it. Entrance costs R17 per adult; R12 per child. • God’s Window (also on the R534, otherwise known as the “God’s Window loop road”) is 9 km from Graskop. On misty days, flat earthers might think they’re at the edge of the world; on clear days you can see the lush Lowveld at the bottom of the Drakensberg escarpment. You might…

Say the word “Richtersveld” in earshot of any go! journalist and he or she will start raving about the stark beauty of the desert landscape. They’ll have you believe that this desolate corner of the Northern Cape is a pristine paradise, where you can find your soul among the boulder outcrops and towering cliffs. But since I am only a guest writer, and not on the permanent payroll, I can be honest: The Richtersveld is dry, dusty and hot as hell. So hot in fact, that you only have three choices during the sweltering midday hours: You can float like a bloated barbel in the Orange River; you can sit in the car with the aircon on; or you can crawl under a rock in a desperate search of shade.…

We always knew that Egypt would be difficult, and that countering the culture of baksheesh (bribery) would be one of our daily challenges. Reading online overlander forums, we knew that the border crossing could be laborious, we’d encounter hagglers everywhere, and security might be an issue. We also heard that self-driving the Sinai Peninsula was a no-no, and that the Oasis Route (a scenic desert route in the west, which takes you from one oasis town to the next) was out of bounds – or we’d need a military convoy at best. But somehow, things just worked out for us. We put it down to a positive attitude, and a respectful roll-of-the-dice… We received our 30-day visas within one hour from the Egyptian consulate in Aqaba, Jordan. We put our…

Wild camping in Egypt is not easy. No-go military areas are everywhere, and then you have the Antiquities Authority – the members of which think you’re a team of tomb robbers if you venture anywhere within a 10 km radius of an archaeological site. Because of this, sneaking off the road to find a spot for the night is tricky. There’s not much to hide behind either, and there are hectic desert winds and deep sand. As a result, there are only a few quiet spots to camp in Egypt, mainly in the Nile Valley.…

Anne Briggs by Anne Briggs R39 at Google Play Store These days, you can tap into an endless flow of music using a streaming service, where an algorithm figures out what you like based on your favourite brand of toothpaste and what you last bought at Builders Warehouse. The result is that you end up listening to other – often more boring – artists in the same genre. That’s why it’s good to revisit the cornerstone recordings of a genre every now and then. When it comes to British folk, this Anne Briggs album is bottled as close to the source as it gets. Famously reclusive, Briggs disappeared from the music scene decades ago. This re-release of her 1971 self-titled album brings the joy of her clear, melodic voice…

Have you been somewhere you think other go! readers would enjoy? Write about the experience and we might publish your story. Please keep it short (1 500 words maximum) and send us some sample photos. If we do decide to publish, we’ll need the original, high-resolution photos so make sure your camera is on the right setting. E-mail your story to editor@ gomag.co.za. We reserve the right to edit and shorten your text, and use your photos elsewhere in the magazine, on our digital platforms and in our marketing material.…

Catching a glimpse of an African wild dog is a privilege very few people get to experience. Considered vermin and hunted relentlessly, wild dog numbers fell from an estimated 500 000 to around 6 600 in less than a century. There has been a recent suggestion in certain celebrity circles to rename the species painted wolf, as the name “wild dog” is thought to cast them in a negative light. “If we could get everybody to call them painted wolves, it would make quite the difference to their reputation, and therefore their survival,” says Sir Richard Branson about his favourite animal. At the same time, conservationists who have campaigned and raised awareness for African wild dogs worry that changing the name will negatively impact their efforts. Either way, Villiers Steyn…

JBL Endurance Sprint Earphones We need to put in a disclaimer here: People’s ears are almost as unique as their fingerprint, so earphone fit is subjective. A comfortable pair for one person might be painful for another. Even though these wireless headphones have been designed for sport, they’re also a great choice for daily life. Firstly because they’re properly waterproof, so sweat and rain are no issue. Secondly, the TwistLock tech creates a vacuum seal when you twist the headset into position, holding the earphones securely in place. They won’t slip out, regardless of what you’re doing or the shape of your ears. In terms of comfort, the two earbuds are connected by a lightweight cable that rests on the back of your neck. They also power down automatically when…

ROUTE 1 FINAL 115 KM OF THE FRENCH WAY When? 2 to 11 September 2019 Cost: From R23 285 per person sharing* In a nutshell: There are seven Camino routes, but the French Way is the most popular by far. More than 250 000 pilgrims walk this route every year. The full route starts in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port in France and runs across northern Spain. This tour covers the final 115 km to Santiago de Compostela. If you only do one Camino, make it this one. TOUR ITINERARY Day 1: Depart from South Africa. Day 2: Arrive in Porto, Portugal, and travel about 300 km by bus to Sarria, over the border in Spain. You’ll start walking from Sarria the next day. There are many buildings in town that have significance on…

• ZAMBEZI RIVER AT LIVINGSTONE • KASANKA NATIONAL PARK • BANGWEULU WETLANDS • KUNDALILA FALLS DATES 1 – 15 November 2019 (15 days, 14 nights; tented accommodation) RATES R26 393,50 per adult; half-price for children under 10; max eight vehicles. THE RATES INCLUDE • Two-way radios for all vehicles • Specialist guide and crew • All camp fees and park entrance fees • Tents and camping gear • Three meals per day, plus coffee and tea in camp WHAT SHOULD I BRING? • Your vehicle and fuel • Mattresses and/or stretchers and sleeping bags and pillows • Camping chairs • Drinks and snacks • Out of country/medical emergency and evacuation insurance cover • Border crossing fees and road taxes I want to go! Call 044 535 9033 (telephone or fax) or e-mail bookings@bhejane.com; bhejane.com…

HYENA VS WATERBUCK, SABI SAND I’m a guide with my own safari company. This incident occurred when I was taking a guest around Londolozi Private Game Reserve, inside Sabi Sand. The day started like any other day in the bush: packing a hot box with coffee and snacks, signing out my rifle and heading to the lodge to meet my guest. He was on a photographic safari. This particular morning we’d already had some amazing sightings, including a leopard we tracked for some time before we arrived at this waterhole. I had visited this waterhole many times in the past. It’s far from camp and usually a good place for birdwatching. We had it all to ourselves. Approaching the waterhole, something seemed out of place. Before we had a chance…