The clear blue underwater space around us stretched to infinity—the visibility must have exceeded 100 feet. Clouds of fish hovered above, between, and behind the exquisite coral. These waters off Pulau Kri have one of the world’s richest coral communities. Green, red, yellow, and purple, the coral covers the slanting bottom in mushrooming plates, circles, antlers branching like trees, and frilly lace. It wasn’t all dreamy beauty, though. A lightning-fast strike of a shark on a hapless grunt scattered schools of minnows. But they soon settled back into the magical waterscape.
Hengki Kolit, our translator, guide, and friend aboard Whale Song, our 94-foot expedition motoryacht on the way westward from Papua New Guinea, pointed us to Raja Ampat—a region off Irian Jaya in the Indonesian islands fabled by world-wise scuba…
