Table of contents for April 2019 in Sunset

THE LILAC BUSH OUTSIDE our house bloomed each spring with a heady perfume that enveloped the yard. We were children then, and not much interested in gardening, but if a plant could ever embody a human emotion this one, for me, was an extension of a mother’s love: unconditional, intense, complete. I had meant to write this month about so many things—the fantastic “Spa Survey of the West” (page 24), by Executive Editor Jen Murphy, the debut of our pantry column by our new assistant editor Maya Wong (page 78), our “Going with the Flow” piece about Hawaii (page 48). But when I read “Life Lessons from the Flower Farmers” (page 64), I could think of nothing else but how that indelible sense memory was created for me on Melody…

To make the most of summer’s long, sunshiny days, interior designer and stylist Meta Coleman (metacoleman.com) created a colorful, family-friendly outdoor-living space at her home in Provo, Utah, that riffs off retro. The choice of predominantly primary colors alongside bold patterns was inspired by a ’70s-era photograph Coleman saw of three women wearing mismatched striped dresses, dancing barefoot in the street. “I haven’t been able to get that image out of my mind so I decided to pay homage to it with my backyard patio design,” she says. Her interpretation mixes timeless stripes with small mod florals and prints from Finnish design house Marimekko (marimekko.com). “I recommend varying the scale of your patterns and incorporating some of the color from the main pieces into the accessories,” she says. She opted…

The neck-craning canyons of the Gates of Lodore spring out of nowhere, at odds with the rolling bluff of Browns Park. After the mellow undulation of the park, the walls of the canyon pinch back in, and the red rocks of the Uinta Mountain Group fold up, pushing skyward. The water picks up speed as soon as we get on the river, and we paddle into a stiff, persistent headwind. You’re ruled by wind and light in the canyons, and the sun diffuses as we get deeper into this one. I keep spinning my face skyward, trying to get a look at the top. The evening before, I’d shown up at the O.A.R.S. rafting outfitter’s boathouse in Vernal to prep for a river trip through Lodore. Permits for the 44-mile-long…

Once the stomping grounds of Wall Street execs who came for the family-run lodge’s first-of-its-kind heli-fishing program, Nimmo Bay Wilderness Resort is attracting a new audience with its wellness-driven programs. Nestled into the old-growth forests of British Columbia’s Great Bear Rainforest, the nine-cabin floating lodge has tapped into studies that show the healing properties of time spent in nature. In May and June, Nimmo offers daylong and weeklong “nature and nurture” retreats that revolve around rainforest hikes, ocean kayaking, and wildlife-viewing excursions via stand-up paddleboards (keep your eyes peeled for bears along the shore). At day’s end you have plenty of options for R&R: Be pampered with massages in the treetop spa room, soothe sore muscles in the floating sauna, or soak in the cedar hot tubs set at the…

HIKE: Ha‘akulamanu Although the popular Kilauea Iki trail is still closed, Ha’akulamanu trail (aka Sulphur Banks), is only a 5-minute drive away. The 1.2-mile path takes you through colorful mineral deposits, wildflowers, and steaming vents. nps.gov/havo/planyourvisit/hike_day_sulphur. HELICOPTER TOUR: Paradise Helicopters Observe the mystical Kilauea volcano from above, from the river of frozen lava to the newest black sand beaches. It’s a bird’s-eye view of one of Earth’s most spectacular creations. From $247; paradisehelicopters.com. PHOTO TOUR: Epic Lava Volcano Park Private Tour Capture the glowing volcano under the stars during an intimate photo tour of the best locations for nighttime and sunrisephotography. From 2 a.m. to 7 a.m., you’ll get tips on how to snap like a pro. From $300; epiclava.com.…

Staying Wild Name: Carli Spielman Kids: Daughter, Frankie, 12; son, Charlie, 9 Business: Wild Rabbit Flowers Website: wildrabbitflowers.ca Location: Hope, British Columbia Known for: Large floral installations, huge floral arches, floral chandeliers Favorite flowers: Dahlias Carli Spielman grew up in a country town close to nature and wanted the same experiences for her two children. In Hope, British Columbia, this single mom grows flowers on a quarter-acre microfarm (it’s actually the backyard of her home), so that she can grow and design beautiful flowers while being home for her children. “I was not always a gardener, but my mother is and had a garden when I was growing up. I guess a little rubbed off, and I picked it up later in life when I saw that I could provide…

GROW ROSES Roses are part of a huge trend that’s not going away. Some of these oldies but goodies are having a notable resurgence. MIX PRODUCE + PETALS Experiment with herbs, vegetables, and berries in your flowers. Berries are really great for foliage and color. SOFT CAN BE STRIKING Varying shades of pink are in style right now. Try bright pops of coral alongside softer blushes. MICRO-FARM Everyone can be their own floral supplier. Even if you have a small yard you can grow in a large planting bed or in raised beds.…

PRESERVED LEMON “We use them on our lamb and baba ghanoush flatbread, and as a rub on our lamb bacon. It’s also great in a martini.”—Chef Sayat, Ozyilmaz, Noosh, San Francisco NIGELLA SEED “This little-known seed has a distinct, smoky flavor. Put it on the rim of a mezcal drink to bring out more smokiness.”—Chef Haitham El Khatib, Aleph Eatery, Vancouver, B.C. BAHARAT “A beautiful blend of a dozen flavors, this spice is unparalleled for grilled chicken thigh or mixed into deviled egg filling.”—Chef Daniel Asher, Ash’Kara, Denver ZHOUG “Adding a dab of this spicy, cilantro-based Yemeni sauce hummus is an easy way to kick up the flavor.”—Chef Ori Menashe, Bavel, Los Angeles ZAATAR “The blend changes but key spices are thyme, sumac, and sesame. Press your chicken in it…

Fat Gold The subscription-based model of Fat Gold means you get a glossy tin of this California olive oil four times a year. Each shipment includes a quarterly zine by owners Kathryn Tomajan and Robin Sloan with ideas on how to use their product. $169/year; fat.gold Brightland Alive Aishwarya Iyer set out to make an olive oil built on transparency and deliciousness (adulterated olive oil is becoming a major problem). The result is a smooth, nutty oil made from handpicked heirloom olives sourced from a singleestate California farm. $37; brightland.co California Olive Ranch Destination Series Everyday Known as a pioneer in the artisanal olive oil world, this Golden State–based brand is all about making a wallet-friendly EVOO. The new Destination Series Everyday blend is versatile enough to use on anything…

The reign of the Arnold Palmer has finally ended. These bars put just as much effort into their alcohol-free cocktail program as they do into their boozy counterparts. Raised by Wolves San Diego raisedxwolves.com DRINK TO TRY Melon Market Swizzle WHAT’S IN IT Honeydew, lime, vanilla, yogurt, and mint Oven & Shaker Portland ovenandshaker.com DRINK TO TRY Pineapple Pepper Punch WHAT’S IN IT Yellow bell pepper, pineapple, lime, clover honey syrup, black lemon bitters Death & Co. Denver deathandcompany.com/denver DRINK TO TRY Neon Moon WHAT’S IN IT Shiso, lemongrass, lime, egg white NoMad Las Vegas thenomadhotel.com DRINK TO TRY Peter Piper WHAT’S IN IT Pineapple, black pepper, passion fruit, lime, white balsamic fundamental LA Los Angeles fundamental-dtla.com DRINK TO TRY Peas + Mint WHAT’S IN IT English peas, mint, yuzu…

We’re launching our 2019 Travel Awards with all new categories, including expanded reader favorites. Help us bring attention to your favorite new spots. Visit sunset.com/travelawards for more details and see page 7 for additional details. OUR SUNSET PLANT COLLECTION (sunsetwesterngardencollection.com) has a number of perfect plants to get in the ground now for your summer garden. Lavender Meerlo, which was bred for heat tolerance and an incredible lavender scent, is a top choice. These are super-easy plants to grow, with low water needs, and they’ll look great all summer long. Available in a garden center near you.…

Kombucha is mainstream enough now that big-guy grocers carry them en masse and even Starbucks and Coca-Cola have their own labels. Hard kombucha? A little trickier to find. Like its nonalcoholic predecessor, hard kombucha has that signature fizz from natural fermentation. But while the traditional yogi’s drink of choice contains less than 0.5 percent ABV, the boozy variety has an ABV similar to a craft beer—about 4.5 to 7 percent. You’ll find the 21+ drink popping up at health-foods markets, local kombucha breweries, and occasionally even on tap at a bar. Is it good enough to be your new day-drinking brew of choice? We sipped (and sipped, and sipped) to find out. 1. HONEYMOON BREWERY CAMELLIA FLOR SANTA FE, NM HONEYMOONBREWERY.COM “This is a good starter for people who are…

Decorating With Plants (Artisan; $25) In her second book, San Francisco plant designer Baylor Chapman tackles the houseplant craze and cuts through the noise. Her tips are practical and always given with an eye toward creating beautiful spaces in your home. Check out her favorite go-to plants, easy-care instructions, and advice for decorating every space—from entryways to a child’s bedroom. The Garden Chef (Phaidon; $40) Looking for inspiration for both the kitchen and the garden? Find it in these beautifully photographed pages as 40 renowned chefs from around the globe—including Alice Waters—share recipes and stories about the intimate relationship between how they cook and how they grow food, whether it’s in a scrappy urban plot, a rooftop space, or a large farm. Pacific Natural: Simple Seasonal Entertaining (Rizzoli New York;…

ADRIFT DINOSAUR Specialty trips feature guests like Patrick Tierney, author of an award-winning book about Colorado’s Yampa River. Adrift offers both rafting and SUP trips starting in Colorado on the Green or Yampa rivers and ending at Split Mountain Campground in Utah. Four-day SUP trips from $1,950 and rafting from $859; adrift.com. HOLIDAY RIVER EXPEDITIONS This Utah-based company has been guiding for 50-plus years in the West. Five- and six-day trips cover an 84-mile stretch of the Green that runs through Desolation Canyon. On the river, you’ll tackle 60 rapids. On shore, you’ll spot ancient petroglyphs and bighorn sheep. Fiveday trips from $1,180; bikeraft.com. OARS Author Heather Hansman ran the Green River through the Gates of Lodore with this pioneering rafting company. Dinosaur National Monument is the backdrop for three-…

Long before there was SoulCycle or Botox, there was the Golden Door. When America’s first luxury destination spa opened its gilded doors in 1958 its mind-body approach to pampered wellness was way ahead of its time. Hollywood stars like Elizabeth Taylor were regulars at the 40-room, ryokan-inspired retreat tucked away in a tranquil valley just north of San Diego. More than six decades later, a head-to-toe makeover has made this pioneering spa more relevant than ever. Vibrating weight-loss belt machines have been replaced with battle ropes and TRX training, and low-cal versions of turkey salad divan have been swapped for togarashi-seared big-eye tuna and ginger-soy marinated tofu. On the expanded 600 acres you’ll find 30 miles of hiking trails, Zen rock gardens, a bamboo forest, and an organic farm with…

PERFECT DAY The Grand Canyon celebrates its centennial as a national park this year. If you’re planning a trip, don’t write off Flagstaff as simply a gateway to the park’s South Rim. Standing at almost 7,000 feet, with Arizona’s highest peak and the world’s largest contiguous ponderosa pine forest, Flagstaff is a destination in its own right. Outdoor adventure is never far—or a microbrewery, for that matter. Not only do world-class runners train here, but so did the men on the moon. The big ideas that pour forth from Northern Arizona University have helped elevate the vibe of this pioneer outpost. Even those who come for the peaks and the pines will be pleasantly surprised by the cultural offerings. But not to worry: The dress code remains rustic. 9 A.M.…

PLANT Plant blackberries, grapes, hardy kiwis, raspberries, strawberries, and tree fruits. Bare-root stock is often gone, so purchase plants in containers. Set out seedlings of broccoli, brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower chives, kale, kohlrabi, lettuce, onions, parsley, spinach, and Swiss chard. Also plant seed potatoes and rhubarb. Sow arugula, beets, carrots, cilantro, peas, and radishes. Plant permanent landscape favorites, including cherries, crabapples, dogwoods, lilacs, rhododendrons, and roses. Among climbers, check out fiveleaf akebia, clematis, climbing hydrangea, honeysuckle, passion vine, and wisteria. MAINTAIN Dig slow-release organic fertilizer into the backfill of everything you plant this month. PLAN When plotting your vegetable bed, group plants with similar irrigation needs; you’ll save water and keep crops healthy. Basil, cucumbers, and tomatoes all need consistent water. Herbs such as rosemary, sage, and thyme need only…

DON’T PLANT TOO EARLY Just because you’re excited to plant, and it feels like spring, doesn’t mean another frost might not come and wipe out your new seedlings. Plant after the last frost. START WITH ANNUALS Many varieties of annuals flower the first season, and you don’t have to worry about planting zones. Planting annuals also simplifies the end of the season care since they won’t come back. USE RAISED BEDS Filling raised beds with loose, well-draining soil will allow plants to develop healthy root systems that can access nutrients. Add compost or compost tea for even faster growth. PLANT CUT-AND-COME-AGAIN FLOWERS Choose flowers that continue to bloom when cut. Cosmos are a great choice for this and they are easy to grow.…

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1 Chia oatmeal for regular oatmeal “A grain-free vegan option loaded with o megas. It’s also great for your digestion.” 2 Coconut sugar for white sugar “Its lower overall glycemic load and nice caramel flavor make it great for your morning coffee or baking.” 3 Forbidden black rice for white rice “Nutty and delicious, it’s even lower in calories and more nutritious than fiberrich brown rice.”…

1 CLEAN YOUR CAMERA LENS Tiny specs of dust, dirt, sand, or water will ruin any image you take. Use the lens cleaner from your sunglasses to wipe the surface, especially if you’re using a cell-phone with a small lens. 2 USE YOUR AUTOBRACKET OR HDR Most cameras have an autobracket or HDR (High Dynamic Range) feature, which takes three photos at a time using different exposures. Turn it on, or focus on the brightest part of the image. 3 FLIP THE SUNSET AROUND Everyone else will capture the sunset. After you’ve got yours, turn around to explore the “magic hour” light on subjects or landscapes. Or face the sun and play with the backlight.…

Teetotaling in wine country Annie Favia is known for having a hand in tending some of Napa Valley’s most esteemed vineyards, including Screaming Eagle and Colgin. Now, the viticulturist has turned her green thumb to tea. At the historic Coombsville homestead where she and her husband, winemaker Andy Erickson, produce Favia Wines, she’s planted a tea garden of chamomile, lemon verbena, peppermint, hibiscus, raspberry leaf, and lavender. The loose-leaf herbal teas, sold under her new line Erda, are farmed organically and hand-picked. This isn’t a tea to sip during your morning commute, she says. Favia wants people to devote the same time and attention to tea as they would to a third-wave coffee or fine wine. “Take the time to properly brew a quality tea, and you’ll realize it’s nuanced…

EAT Black Jet Baking Co. Some come for its fancified versions of childhood favorites, like the signature buttery Nutella Pop-Tarts and caramelized coconut treats (aptly dubbed the Crack-a-roon). But this Bernal Heights bakery also justifies a stop for owner Gillian Shaw’s less flashy sweets like the Coconut Cream Pie and any and all cakes—especially the Sour Cream Coffee Cake. I say this with confidence: The cake’s brown sugar swirl will absolutely raise your view of bundts in the hierarchy of desserts. Be sure to come here with a game plan; the store is small and you’ll likely need to feast on your freshly baked goods during a walk down Cortland Avenue. blackjetbakingco.com—Maya Wong, assistant editor DRINK Fieldwork Brewing Company I’m a beer nerd, so I’m no stranger to Toronado, the…

HALOTHERAPY WHAT IS IT: Salt therapy has Eastern European origins and is believed to relieve respiratory inflammation and improve the immune system. HOW IT WORKS: Instead of a salt mine, like the old days, you’ll sit in a room of glowing pink Himalayan salt tiles and breathe in the negative ions they release. WHERE TO TRY IT: Ho’ola Spa at the Sheraton Kona Resort & Spa at Keauhou Bay, Hawaii; sheraton.com. FLOAT TANK WHAT IS IT: American neuroscientist John C. Lilly created the first version of this water-filled tank in the 1950s to help explore the mind in a relaxed state. Think of it as bathing yoga. HOW IT WORKS: More than one thousand pounds of Epsom salt saturates 12-inches of water, creating a buoyant bath you float on for…

There is no pool. That’s the one thing you’d expect to find in the backyard of a 12-time Olympic medalist. But Natalie Coughlin—at 36, the most decorated American female athlete in Olympic history—has no pool. “It’s the last thing I wanted,” she says. “I don’t know what to do at a pool other than swimming—it’s like bringing your work home.” What Coughlin’s yard boasts instead is a rich edible garden carved into the hillside behind her home in Lafayette, just over 20 miles east of San Francisco. Coughlin and her husband, swim coach Ethan Hall, fell for the home’s secluded feel and expansive views in 2007. But Coughlin also had her eye on what was essentially a blank slate in an almost 30,000-square-foot backyard under a grove of majestic California…

SELECT THE BEST SUPPLIERS Good seeds, bulbs, tubers, and corms aren’t always the cheapest, but you’ll be happy when they flower. Go with online retailers such as Johnny’s Selected Seeds (johnnyseeds.com) or K. van Bourgondien (dutchbulbs.com). BUY NEW BULBS—SOMETIMES For the best flowers, buy new tulip, lily, and iris bulbs each year. Some bulbs just aren’t the same the second or third year. LEAVE OTHER PLANTS ALONE There are other plants, such as daffodils, peonies, and hyacinths, that should stay in the same place. With the proper care, they will produce beautiful blooms year after year. START SEEDS INDOORS If you’re planting flowers from seed, start them in seed trays indoors under grow lights or in a greenhouse. Don’t forget to harden off your seedlings before planting them in the…

Forks aren’t always necessary at Safta, James Beard Award–winning chef Alon Shaya’s new modern Israeli restaurant in Denver’s Source Hotel and Market Hall. Bread is considered the main utensil in Israel, explains Shaya, as he tears off a piece of wood-fired pita and dunks it into a bowl of thick labneh, a dish he describes as the best of cream cheese, goat cheese, and yogurt. At age 4, Shaya and his family moved from Israel to Philadelphia, where he stood out for both his name (kids called him Alone) and for the borekas packed in his lunch box. During those tough childhood years, the cooking of his grandmother, a Bulgarian woman who moved to Israel in 1948, brought him comfort. “Arriving home to the aroma of charred eggplant was always…

SUN NOODLE MISO RAMEN ($7.49) Ramen nerds know Sun Noodle as the supplier to some of the best Japanese noodle shops across the country. They also sell their springy, tender noodles, complete with broth flavoring packets, in Asian markets and even Whole Foods. sunnoodle.com NONA LIM TOKYO RAMEN ($5.99) These fresh yellow-hued noodles from the Oakland-based Asian comfort foods company are the foundation for an easy weeknight meal. Give them a quick boil, top with one of their savory broths (miso, spicy chicken), and whatever protein you have on hand. nonalim.com LOTUS FOODS FORBIDDEN RICE RAMEN ($2.29) Just as the name suggests, these long, dark noodles are made from heirloom black rice, along with white and brown rice flour, instead of wheat. Since the noodles come dried, you can store…

THE NONALCOHOLIC COCKTAIL SCENE has exploded over the past year, and the epicenter of the movement sits in a cozy co-op in California wine country. Opened in December, Fern Bar is serving some of the freshest, most inventive takes on spirit-free drinks. Located in Sonoma County’s health-conscious hippie town of Sebastopol, the 72-seat space is the brainchild of local restaurateurs Lowell Sheldon and Natalie Goble; chef Joe Zobel; Gia Baiocchi, owner of the Nectary juice bar; and Sam Levy, former bar manager at Napa Valley’s Michelin three-star Restaurant at Meadowood. “We want our customers to feel included, even if they’re taking a night off from drinking,” says Levy. “If your friends are having a fancy cocktail, you shouldn’t have to settle for a Coke.” Levy likens the trend to chefs…