âIT IS THE COLDEST NIGHT OF THE YEAR,â BEGAN ONE OF Jonathan Goldâs 2006 reviews, âand I am driving along Olympic Boulevard in East Los Angeles, ravenously hungry, looking for one of the itinerant flame-throwing taco carts that sprout in that neighborhood around midnight.â Those words would help Gold become, in 2007, the only food critic ever awarded a Pulitzer Prize. But they also convey something of the man himself: unpretentious, lyrical, enthralled by his hometown, and always, always hungry.
Gold, who died on July 21 at 57, changed American food writing. In his long career reviewing for L.A. Weekly and the Los Angeles Times, he brought his intellect and experience not only to the cityâs tony dining rooms, but also especially to the no-name taquerias, Thai curry jointsâŠ
