MEXICO
3-7 May 2015
by Twiggy Baker
BIG.
Paddle out at dark.
Beautiful and clean, huge walls of water.
Larger and larger sets further out.
The rips get scary.
Keep pushing, sniffing here and there.
Bail twice under sets, just sneaking through, so lucky.
Finally, the perfect teepee that you wait your whole life for.
Paddle hard, not enough, stuck on the back of the double up.
Fuck, pull back, almost sucked over.
Turn around, heart stops.
Caught inside by the monster.
Stay calm, breathe up, boom.
Violence. The next one is worse, as is the third.
Regurgitated onto the beach.
Totally spent without riding a wave.
Everything in working order.
Ready for tomorrow.
After the first day the ocean didn’t stop and for the next three days we where…