Table of contents for December 2018 in go!

While visiting friends at Umfula Estate near Hoedspruit, we saw this spotted bush snake take two hours to eat a grey tree frog. The deck at the house has a view of the Olifants River and a number of these frogs live in and around it. I spent most of the two hours lying flat on my stomach with a 500 mm lens, trying to get the right shot in the dying evening light. Our time at Umfula was part of a longer camping road trip from Cape Town to the Kruger, and this was the most memorable wildlife encounter, without a doubt.…

The Geminids is an annual meteor shower and one of the most striking you’ll see, with up to 50 “shooting stars” per hour. This year, it will take place from 4 – 16 December – perfect timing because the moon won’t be too bright over that period. A meteor shower occurs when the earth moves through debris in the wake of a comet. We might call them shooting stars but they’re actually meteors, which burn out in the earth’s atmosphere about 60 km above the ground. From our vantage point, the streaks of light all seem to originate from a specific point, the so-called radiant. Meteor showers are named after the constellation in which the radiant is located: the Geminids occur in the Gemini constellation. The average number of meteors…

Survival in the wild is hard work. Animals expend huge amounts of energy to procure food and to avoid becoming food. The average herbivore must eat for most of the day to get sufficient energy to sustain itself. The plants it eats often have low nutritional value. An elephant, for example, needs to eat about 350 kg worth of grass, leaves, bark and twigs – per day! Predators are active for shorter periods of time, but the hunting process also takes a lot of energy. Studies show the reason cheetahs and lions lie around for up to 20 hours a day is to save up energy for this purpose. They can only sustain a high-speed chase for a few minutes. This also explains why many big…

If you can feel the grip of adventure there is no stretch of South Africa with a stronger fascination than the finger of wild country running down to Cape Point. It is a lonely finger, pointing to the south ice; a coast blazing under the sun, yet dark with secrets. This is the first paragraph in Almost Forgotten, Never Told by travel writer Lawrence Green, a book about the South African coastline. We have no idea about Bartholomew Diaz’s state of mind when he sailed his tiny caravel around Cape Point in 1488. The only clue that his adrenaline must have been pumping is that he named it Cabo das Tormentas – Cape of Storms. Lawrence Green gives us a better idea what it must have felt like. He writes…

It’s early morning on 13 January 2017 – Hanlie’s birthday. Last night was bitterly cold in our wild campsite below the Exploradores Glacier. I zip open a corner of the window of our rooftop tent and I’m greeted by the first rays of the sun shining through the mist on the glacier above. It’s an incredible sight, especially for two people who are more familiar with Kalahari sand. Am I even awake? Maybe I’m still dreaming? I pinch myself and it’s true. We’re in Patagonia! But how did we get here? The prospect of retirement in 2016 was a daunting one. What on earth would Hanlie and I do? We knew we enjoyed overlanding, but we’d been to most of the usual destinations in southern Africa – we wanted something…

JAMESTOWN, ST HELENA The history of St Helena is as old as seafaring itself, and the architecture in the main street of Jamestown hasn’t changed much in more than a century. To get building materials to this remote island in the South Atlantic is no easy task – the closest big harbour is Cape Town, 3 100 km to the south-east. A Portuguese navigator discovered the island in 1502. For centuries thereafter, the British East India Company used it as a refreshment station. There have always been a few permanent residents on the island, but the original houses built for them were very basic. Jamestown as it looks now started to develop in the early 1800s, during the rise of British Imperialism. The first buildings, dating from about 1840, were…

1 ON THE ROCKS Limpet A limpet looks like the roof of a rondavel. Diff species occur along our c – see how many you can find Mussels Ask your parents to get a permit at the nearest post office and collect black mussels for dinner. They’re delicious with some garlic butter. Rockskipper Look for rockskippers on the rocks along the east coast. The area around Port St Johns on the Wild Coast is a good place to find them. Chiton Chitons scrape algae off the rocks as they crawl. Rock crab Crabs might look big and bulky, but they can run away very quickly if you get too close. 2 INTERTIDAL ZONE Hermit crab Hermit crabs live in old, discarded shells. As the crab grows, it looks for a…

The hike to the Maltese Cross is a must-do in the Cederberg. From the parking area near Dwarsrivier, it’s about 7,5 km there and back – up a gentle incline to the rock formation and downhill back to your car. Throw in some time for a picnic and it should take you about four hours in total. A photograph of the Cross on its own doesn’t convey how huge it is, which is why photographer Basson van Zyl asked his wife Tanya to pose near the base. If you’re fit and experienced, push on to Sneeuberg Peak! For a complete guide to the Cederberg, check out go! #146…

KRUGER BIRDING WEEKENDS Twitchers looking to add to their list in the Kruger should attend one of these fun birding weekends in the park, hosted by the SANParks Honorary Rangers. All you have to do is show up (and bring your binoculars) and experienced rangers will take you out twice a day to look for birds. You’ll use roads not accessible to the general public. The birding weekends have been held for 21 years and the funds raised go towards conservation projects. When? 25–27 January; 1–3 February; 8–10 February; 22–24 February 2019 Where? Various rest camps and bushveld camps, including Crocodile Bridge, Satara, Pretoriuskop, Punda Maria and Shimuwini. Cost: Main rest camps from R3 450 per person sharing. The rate includes two nights’ accommodation, two dinners and a total of…

My mom could be quite stern. But that year, she turned a blind eye to the eviscerated pillow and the down feathers strewn around the yard, even though the pillow had belonged to Ouma Hart and she’d stuffed it with feathers from her own geese. My mom couldn’t be angry. Why? Because it was Christmas. In our house there was never enough money for big presents, but there were always lots of smaller gifts like hair clips, pencils, plastic watches and handmade items. Likewise, we never had a store-bought Christmas tree like other people in town; we had a sawn-off pine tree branch planted in an oil drum filled with rocks. (We wrapped the drum in crinkle paper to hide the Castrol logo and the dents.) We decorated the tree…

How does it work? The trail starts in Port St Johns and ends in Coffee Bay, five days later. You hike with a guide. Breakfast, dinner and accommodation is included in the rate. You have to bring your own lunch, or cash to buy snacks at the various spaza shops along the way. (Also bring cash to tip your guide and the porters.) Make sure to pack a rain jacket, sunscreen and insect repellent to ward off mosquitoes and ticks. Bring water purification tablets in case. We filled our bottles from rainwater tanks and municipal taps and we didn’t need to use the tablets. How to get there? You can fly to East London and hire a vehicle. FlySafair flights are reasonably priced – a return ticket from Cape Town…

The Bushveld is one of the world’s most magical places. Each day starts with a spectacular sunrise and ends with the blazing sun melting into a cool, starlit evening. Hoedspruit lies in the heart of Limpopo and is undoubtedly a hidden gem as a holiday destination. Situated between the Kruger National Park, which is surrounded by world-class game reserves and lodges, and the breathtaking Blyde River Canyon, means this pretty town should be on any nature lover’s bucket list. It is the perfect place to start your next adventure. Hoedspruit Airport (Eastgate Airport) provides key air access to the pristine private game reserves and luxury lodges in the surrounding area, like Kapama Private Game Reserve, the Thornybush Collection, Royal Malewane, Karongwe Portfolio and Garonga Safari Camp. It’s also a strategic…

The Wildlife Photographer of the Year competition has grown exponentially since it first ran in 1965, in conjunction with BBC Wildlife magazine. The Natural History Museum joined the competition in 1984 and it is now run and owned by them. For the 2018 edition, more than 45 000 entries were received from around the world and the jury of six had the impossible task of choosing the best of the best. The winners were announced in October. Dutch photographer Marsel van Oosten won the overall prize in the adult category for his startling image of a pair of golden snub-nosed monkeys, and 16-year-old Skye Meaker from South Africa took home the big prize in the junior category for his beautiful portrait of a leopard in Mashatu Game Reserve. Two other…

At this family getaway all you are required to do is relax and immerse yourself in the natural environment. This experience is enhanced by your accommodation in a luxury tent, sheltered amid an ancient forest. Our locally sourced food is prepared and served alongside a meandering river. Enjoy a guided walk, paddle, cycle or birding adventure, or simply relax and recharge your soul in this beautiful corner of South Africa. INCLUDED IN THE RATE* • Two healthy home-cooked meals a day • A guided coastal nature walk • A guided experience in the indigenous Knysna Forest in our concession area of the Garden Route National Park • The camp has its own mountain bikes and kayaks for your use • A bird hide is situated near the camp, perfect for sundowners and photography The…

DOUBLE MOUTH NATURE RESERVE, MORGAN BAY Remember that silly “Double rainbow” video that did the rounds a few years ago? Well, at Double Mouth you can experience the river version: The Quko and KuMqotwane rivers join up to form an estuary and both flow into the sea. Technically, this small reserve is not on the Wild Coast because it’s south of the Kei River. But the vibe is the same: It’s a place to escape to if you don’t want crowds, loud music and beauty pageants on the beach. There are no chalets at Double Mouth, nor is there a shop, but the campsite is one of the most scenic you’ll find. The stands are laid out in a semi-circle so they all have a sea view, and there’s a…

When you drive into Struisbaai along the R319 from Bredasdorp, you’ll immediately feel the muscles in your shoulders relax. Struisbaai is an honest, functional holiday town. The sea is on your left and there’s a fun park on your right. Along Main Road, holiday homes are interspersed with small businesses and seafood restaurants. There are signs all over advertising holiday accommodation. If you go past the harbour and the small shopping centre, the road bends right and becomes Marine Drive, where a strip of coastal fynbos separates you from the deep blue sea. On the other side of the road, on the slopes of a hill called Sandberg, more holiday houses vie for space. Soon you’ll see the famous red-and-white lighthouse in the distance, with shops and eateries at its…

LIFE LISTS & LOST BIRDS It’s 3.30 am when I pull into the filling station in Humansdorp. I get out of the car and my lower back reminds me that my forties are fast approaching. Christina Aguilera is singing on the radio. She has an audience of one since everyone else is fast asleep: my wife, my two kids and the petrol attendants on the night shift. “Why do I do this?”I wonder to myself. A few hours ago, my phone beeped and the message made me break into a cold sweat: “Possible Upcher’s warbler sighting at Tankatara salt pans near Port Elizabeth.” Our plans for the rest of the week were immediately shelved. This migratory bird usually winters in East Africa and has never been recorded in southern Africa…

CLOSE CALL, MANA POOLS, ZIMBABWE WJ NORTIER: In August 2018, we travelled to Mana Pools in a convoy of four vehicles and camped at Nyamepi. I work as a ranger at Sabi Sand Game Reserve and I know that wild animals remain wild no matter where you are. You should always approach with caution. That said, I found the elephants at Mana Pools to be very calm: They went about their business as if we weren’t there. The camps in the park aren’t fenced and elephants often wander through, looking for tasty seed pods in the ana trees. I watched them closely and there were no signs of stress or uncertainty when they browsed among the campers. I was the youngest member of the group, which also included my parents…

Ride into the sunset I’m a keen photographer and I try to document all my adventures. When I look at my photos, they transport me back to how I felt in the moment. The article “It’s time for Africa” in go! #147, about touring the continent, inspired me to browse through my archive again. I took this photo during a family holiday in the Richmond area of the Great Karoo. My sister Christelle and I were out riding our motorbikes on a dirt road. At the time, I felt as if I could travel all the way to the horizon and shake hands with the sun. CHRISTOFF ELS, Klerksdorp Nature’s clean-up service My husband Nico and I recently visited the Kruger Park. We were enjoying a…

Regular go! contributor Evan Naudé recently travelled to Switzerland in spring where he spent time in the shadow of the Matterhorn, surely the most iconic peak in the Alps. Its pointy summit – 4 478 m above sea level – inspired fear in early mountaineers and it was one of the last major Alpine peaks to be conquered, by Englishman Edward Whymper and his party in 1865. (Four members of the climbing party fell to their death during the descent.) In this shot, dawn light touches the summit, where a 100 m exposed rocky crest forms the border between Switzerland and Italy.…

Whether you’re on your way to the big game reserves in northern Botswana, or to Maun Airport for a scenic flight over the Okavango Delta, be sure to visit the Tshilli Farmstall. This powder-blue coffee bar has a beach-shack vibe – amusing since Botswana is a landlocked country. There’s lush, artificial grass and a lounge area where you can wriggle your toes in the sand. You sit outside under big trees and umbrellas. Close your eyes and you can almost imagine a sea breeze cooling your neck… The menu will put your local franchise coffee shop to shame: Breakfast is served all day and there are delicious vegetarian options healthy enough to make you feel virtuous. (Bet you didn’t think you’d find chia seeds and coconut milk in Maun…) Or…

Want to make a contribution to science? All you need is a torch, a cellphone camera and some detective skills. Oh, and you shouldn’t be scared of spiders… Very little is known about the various baboon spider species that occur in southern Africa. What we do know, however, is that these members of the tarantula family are also threatened by habitat loss and the illegal pet trade, just like their cousins in the Americas. That’s where the Baboon Spider Atlas comes in: You can help scientists better understand the spider’s distribution by taking a photo when you see a baboon spider and uploading it to the website, along with location data. The research will be used to improve conservation efforts. HOW TO GET INVOLVED 1. FIND A SPIDER Most species…

Six dots march up a hill along a narrow footpath, which has been stamped out by man and animal over centuries. All along the Wild Coast, in the rolling green landscape, you’ll find paths like this. They lead from one village of colourful huts to the next, through fields of spinach and mielies, and past spaza shops. It’s the fourth day of the five-day hike between Port St Johns and Coffee Bay. On one side of us, waves break onto a beach – empty except for some lazy cows. Ahead of us (and behind) there are estuaries, lagoons, coastal forests and endless hills. I first did this trail in 2010 and I should have come back to do it again long before now. I’ll add it to my list of…

1 Die Padstal No road trip is complete without padkos. At this farm stall near Villiers you can stock up on decent biltong and droëwors (both R289/kg) and fill your cool box with farm-fresh lamb chops and boerewors. Owners Flippie and Elize Lourens also sell home-made ginger beer, fruit juice, preserved products and their Leka Hot chilli sauce (hot enough to knock you off your chair, according to Elize). You’ll find biscuits and rusks on the shelves, too, along with arts, crafts and toys. Manager Jenny Webb speaks the truth: “All you need in life is a little friendliness and lekker biltong,” she says. The best thing about Die Padstal? There’s a branch on either side of the N3 so you can stop again on your way home. Where? At…

OLIFANTSBOS This might be one of the most exclusive accommodation spots in the country: a fully equipped house on your own private beach in the middle of nowhere. The main house has three double bedrooms, a braai stoep and a fireplace. There’s also an annex with accommodation for six more people. It’s very popular and you have to book far in advance. Rates: From R3 622 per night for four people, plus R686 per extra adult and R343 per extra child (max 12 people). DUIKER & ELAND These self-catering cottages in the north-western part of the park can accommodate six people each. There’s a Jetmaster fireplace and a braai in both; Duiker has an additional braai boma. You might not be close to the ocean, but you’re surrounded by fynbos…

MARK PRESTON-WHYTE Canon EOS 7D Sigma 18 – 50 mm lens MARK WRITES: The area around Didima Camp near Cathedral Peak is my favourite part of the Drakensberg. I took this photo as dawn was breaking. My settings: shutter speed 1/50 second; aperture f8; ISO 100. In my younger days I used to hike a lot in the Drakensberg. Now it feels as if the mountains have  grown taller and steeper – I can’t keep up with the youngsters any more. Instead, I limit myself to wandering around the Little Berg, looking at the high peaks. I’m lucky that my daughters have inherited a love of the Drakensberg. They often invite my wife and me to spend a weekend with them in one of the camps. I used to hike…

The Pan South African Language Board, part of the Department of Arts and Culture, has chosen “land expropriation without compensation” as its word, or phrase, of 2018. There’s no doubt land is an emotional issue, but I think “recession” would have been a better option. We all feel it tugging at our wallets, especially if you’re a tyre-kicker who now has to set his or her sights on more affordable options. You fancied a BMW, but now you’ll look at a Volkswagen… Or a 2,4-litre Fortuner instead of the 2,8-litre model. There was a hole in the Fortuner line-up for a lower-spec 4x4 model and Toyota has cleverly plugged it by offering their 2,4-litre model in four-wheel-drive. It’s a deliberate move, as considered as Cyril Ramaphosa appointing Tito Mboweni as…

The tour will be led by an experienced nature conservationist and adventure guide, who will be in radio contact with you at all times while you’re driving. This is not a very technical 4x4 trip, but should you experience any difficulty, the Bhejane crew has all the necessary recovery gear and expertise to assist you. Best of all, your tents will be pitched and dismantled for you, and a team of bush chefs will prepare three delicious meals a day. HOW LONG IS THE TOUR? 11 days; 10 nights (tented accommodation) COST? R12 990 (excl. VAT) per adult; half-price for children under 10. TOUR DATES 18 – 28 March 2019 13 – 23 April 2019 15 – 25 June 2019 29 August – 8 September 2019 INCLUDED IN THE RATE…

AMA ZWING ZWING ZIPLINE TOUR, BROEDERSTROOM After five days of Gauteng traffic, you’ll be craving fresh air and adventure when the weekend rolls around. But nothing too crazy – your commute is already bad for your blood pressure! How about a zipline tour? Not just any zipline tour, one where you can glide through the air for 1,3 km… Ziplining has its origins in the 1990s, when botanists used cables to traverse the tree canopies in the rainforests of Central America to conduct their research. Before long, tourists and adventure seekers caught on and now there are zipline tours all over the world. Gauteng has one right in its backyard. At Ama Zwing Zwing, about 40 km from Pretoria, you can fly from platform to platform…

The end of the year is filled with to-do lists. You tick off the last work and school projects on the calendar and draw up lists of everything you’ll need to buy, pack and remember for the holiday you’ve been looking forward to all year. “The next item on your to-do list is to make sure you’re ready for what the other side of the festive season can throw at you,” says Charnel Hattingh, National Marketing and Communications Manager at Fidelity ADT. “We hate to bring it up, but this time of the year is when criminals have their own shopping lists ready.” She warns: “Don’t leave repairs or installations of alarm systems until the last minute. Many security companies are flooded with requests at this time of the year…